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Showing posts with label crate training. Show all posts
Showing posts with label crate training. Show all posts

I don't wanna: The dislike of management in training.

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I have loads of amazing clients that do the work we discuss and put forth the effort to train their dogs using the advice and plans I give them.  However, depending on the case and specifics of the issues we are working on, this may possibly mean a huge shift in change for both the dog and owner.  This very often involves what we call "management", and this can often be met with some real crazy "whaaa?" faces and words.

Management is utilized a great deal in the beginning of a training program, especially when really changing behavior in dogs, because it sets the dog up to succeed.  It's like the alcoholic that's decided to stop drinking.  They cannot successfully do this by going to the bar, even if just once a week.  They have to manage themselves and set themselves up for success so that the long term result is the person no longer drinking.  This means attending AA meetings and getting rid of all alcohol in the home, not going to bars, etc.  It's a whole new system they have to adopt if they want to change.  There is no easy way around it.  Either they do these things and manage themselves tightly in the beginning (so hopefully when further into their program they can actually go to a bar with a friend and use self discipline) or they will fail. It's just that simple.

We must do the same with our dogs.  When we want to change their behavior we have to find ways to set them up for success while we are working toward the bigger goal or end goal.  If your dog is barking viciously out of the windows at home then gets out on a leash and is very reactive (or aggressive) toward other dogs then we need to change something.  Management here would include blocking the window (so not to practice and get amped up) and not walk the dog --for now-- so that he cannot practice these behaviors. This is not fixing the problem but it's putting forth a management protocol that will aid in the success of all the other training we will be doing to help in the long run.

While most people clearly can see the situation with the alcoholic and respect it, they cannot seem to do this with their dogs when it comes down to it.  I find a lot of resistance to management protocols with dogs.  As humans we seemingly so often just find that dogs are here to do what we say when we say it and if they can't we'll force them into the scenario to make them understand what's wrong and why.

Fido lunges on a leash? Well by golly then I'll slap this correction collar on him and yank it really hard when he does that! He'll learn not to do that again! ... Hmmm ... Is that really setting the dog up to succeed? Is this actually teaching the dog what he should be doing instead of lunging on the leash?

puppy in a safe area: management!
Management is just as important in a training program as the actual training and changing of behavior.  It is part of the protocol.  If one doesn't manage and set their dog up for success the dog will not succeed in the way that it should.  Trainers don't give you the rules to stop doing certain things with your dog or to change the current way you might be doing something so that they can really disrupt your life.  They do it to help you and your dog for the goal you have in mind.

This could be as simple as putting a puppy in a crate so that he cannot chew your things while you're out to quitting your daily walks if your dog is reactive on a leash.  Neither are a life sentence, but a management protocol that can be eventually totally changed to something different.

So just remember, setting your dog up for success and managing your dog isn't a failure, it's a step in the right direction.  I have a client right now that's doing an amazing job with her very leash reactive dog.  We are to the point where I've suggested she can now start short walks.  She knows what to do and how to help the dog when she sees other dogs.  So she says to me, "I feel like I really chickened out the other day walking Fluffy.  I saw another dog and I wasn't ready so I jumped behind the closest car and hid there with Fluffy until the dog was gone. I know I should have worked on her and done something else."  I said, "Are you kidding?!  That's great!  If you knew you weren't mentally ready to handle that then you did the right thing. You set her up for success. She was not able to see the dog to react and you stuck it out until it was safe and she wasn't put in a position to react!  I call that a success and good thinking!"

Don't ever feel like you're failing if you set your dog up to succeed, even if in that moment it's not actually "training".  If your dog is put in a position to make a good choice, or at least not make a bad one, then you're winning! 

Happy training ... and keep on working with your dog to set her up to succeed!

Stacy Greer
Sunshine Dog Training & Behavior, LLC

Crate Training Truths & Tips.

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Crate training is often as hot a topic as politics!  So keep in mind that I'm just one professional trainer in an industry of many across the globe ... but I love, love, love crate training.  I think everyone should do it, regardless of breed or age of the dog being crate trained.

Oh and before I get started, don't forget to read my previous blog post, "Potty Talk" on potty training Do's, Don'ts and How-To's.

The truth is that it's all about the approach, training and use of the crate.  Let me start with the benefits of the use of a crate and then we can do the things to be aware of that could lead to problems. You are your dog's person; only you can decide if this is what you think is best for you and your dog. However, I'll tell you that crates are awesomesauce.

Before I get into the benefits and details of crate training, let me touch on some dogs that may not be able to be crated.  Dogs that have Separation Anxiety (SA) cannot be crated, at least not in the beginning. After a protocol from a pro in treating SA, they usually can be but usually not at first.  SA is very often mis-labeled and mis-diagnosed, and even mis-treated with the wrong protocols, so be sure to read up on it via this website, the SA authority: malenaprice.com. If you suspect SA in your dog please, please contact someone from Malena Price's website ASAP. 

BENEFITS TO CRATE TRAINING.
1) Potty training.
If your puppy is learning the ins and outs of potty training this will be, hands down, the fastest way to accomplish this quickly and successfully.  This even applies to adult dogs that need to be house trained.

The crate is a tool that helps the dog learn to "hold it" so that it will only go potty where it should when taken out of the crate. (See my blog post on potty training.)

When done correctly, crate training let's the dog understand that his crate is his home, a place to keep clean and relax in.  It is not a potty area.

2) Boundaries & safety.
Every dog needs boundaries, just like children.  A crate is a safe, secure and comfy place for your puppy or dog to learn this.  For puppies that are into everything this is a tool that prevents them from running around and getting into trouble, chewing things when they shouldn't and the like.  Same with curious dogs too, even if they aren't puppies.

If supervision isn't able to be accomplished due to busy schedules or someone being out of the home, then a crated dog is a safe dog.  They cannot get into trouble or mischief if they are crated.

3) Place to relax & decompress.
All dogs need a place to relax, get away & decompress.  Just because they are dogs and our pets doesn't mean they don't want some alone time every now and again.  

This is especially vital with puppies as they are growing and developing they need a lot of "down time" to decompress as they can become overstimulated quickly.  Even some adult dogs can become overstimulated and need a place to decompress.  

Got kids, toddlers and/or babies in the home or coming into the home? Then this is definitely a must for when things get a little hectic and you need to allow Fido to go decompress and relax, alone.

4) Dog is ill/injured.
If your dog is ever ill or injured a properly crate trained dog will benefit hugely from being crated during this time.  Some dogs require long periods of rest, like dogs undergoing heartworm treatment or nursing a broken leg.  This could mean several weeks of crate rest.  A crate is a wonderful tool to use because it's comfy and safe for the dog to be in so that they can heal properly.

5) Holidays/parties.
This actually goes along with #3 but I like to make it a separate category.  There are many holidays throughout the year that are more chaotic than others -- New Year's, Fourth of July (for USA), Halloween, Thanksgiving and Christmas.  During holidays and/or parties usually there are either lots of noises and chaos outside or in the home with guests moving about and coming and going.  

These times are critical times for dogs to have a place go to relax, be alone, be comfortable and be away from the chaos.  There are also several specific protocols for these holidays to ensure your dog is not anxious and can remain cool and collected while resting in her crate in a safe area of the home.

6) Travel & staying away from home.
Traveling, especially if going on a long distance trip, is safest for your dog if he's in a secure crate.  Also, if visiting somewhere such as a dog-friendly hotel or even another person's home, it is beneficial (and polite) if your dog is able to be crated in another room of someone's home or quietly in a dog-friendly hotel room.

7) Behavior modification, foster dogs & new dog introductions.
Behavior Modification -- Crates are hugely beneficial during behavior modification programs when dogs need to be separated, when dogs should be rotated (one out, one in) and for other reasons that would be laid out in specific training protocols on a case by case basis.

Foster Dogs -- If you foster dogs it's a must to have a crate for the foster dog.  They should always have time to decompress and stay in a place that's quiet and safe away from the rest of your other dogs and other family members.  There is an entire protocol for this and you should contact me if you need information and details.  However, foster dogs shouldn't be brought in and just tossed into your mix of things.  

New Dogs to the home -- If you are adding a new puppy or dog to your home with an existing dog (or dogs) it is vital to have a crate for the new dog (hopefully your current dog[s] are crate trained as well) to retreat to, stay in during the introductory period.  Again, an entire protocol is laid out when this applies to your home so I won't go into details.  If this applies to your home please contact me to get a protocol in place before adding the new dog.

THINGS TO BE AWARE OF.
As you can see the benefits of crate training are many.  However, there are some things that could happen, albeit usually totally avoidable, and some more on the doubtful or rarely an issue side of things.  I'm still going to list them all because they are a possibility if you aren't aware.  

1) Entanglement.
Some dogs can become entangled, when wearing a collar, in a wire crate. Worst case scenario is a dog strangles themselves this way. This is totally avoidable by taking off your dog's collar each time you put your dog in a crate.

2) Trapped in a housefire.
Obviously this isn't going to be something you could predict but also this isn't going to be a common occurrence, if ever.  But it could happen.  For this to be avoided, always have a plan in the event that you have a house fire while you are not home.  In this instance [having a plan], crating your dog can actually be beneficial if done properly. Have the plan written down and given to neighbors.  Here is a great resource for how to lay out a plan for your dog in the event of a house fire.

3) Incorrect size/use.
If you have a crate that is too small or too large they could both be a hindrance.  When potty training a crate should be the perfect size (more later on this) and not too big.  For dogs confined for longer periods you may want one a tad larger so they can stretch out as much as possible for comfy naps. 

Misuse is also something you should avoid.  This would include a dog being crated for more than 8-10 hours at a time, on a consistent basis, without a break.  I know many people work full days, in this case it is important that you try to hire a dog walker to come in at least once a day to let your dog out for a bit to potty and get some exercise or engagement of some kind.  Sometimes neighborhood teens or some other resource can do this for really cheap (or free) if a dog walker isn't in the budget.

CORRECT SIZES & TYPES OF CRATES.
Crate sizes.
Having the correct size of crate for your dog is very important, especially since it can differ depending on what it's used for.  For example, when putting a puppy in one for crate training purposes I often see people getting far too large of crates for the puppy which leaves room for puppy to have accidents inside the crate and create a habit of going potty inside a crate, totally opposite of what you want to use a crate for.  

So, for potty training purposes the crate should fit the dog just right.  For large breed dogs you could get a large crate and they often come with dividers (usually only the wire crates do) so that you can section off the crate and let it "grow" with your puppy.  If you have a plastic crate then dividers are more difficult to use in them.  So this is when you want to get the correct size of crate.  Measure your puppy from head to tail base (not end of tail) and add 3-5 inches.  That's the length of crate you need.  You will need to watch your puppy grow and adjust the crate size accordingly, which means purchasing a new one when the time is right.

If your dog is reliably holding it while in the crate then you could get a crate that is a tad bigger than the potty training crate size as recommended above.  This just allows your dog to stretch out more.  It's also good to note that some dogs like being curled up in a small space so this may or may not make a difference to your dog.  So just make a judgment call on that.

Which brings us to which type of crate to use.  You should know this is a complete personal choice. There isn't one type of crate that is really better for crate training than another.  There are 3 main types -- wire, plastic and soft.  The soft crate shouldn't be used until your dog is fully crate trained and is happy and safe in a crate.  They can be torn through and eaten through in a jiff!  So that should be out unless you're past the stage of training.  That leaves the wire crate and the plastic, airline crates. 

Wire crates.
Wire crates are airy, dogs can see out on all sides and they are really easy to tote around. They fold flat when broken down and can fit into a trunk or back of a vehicle easily.  They come with dividers that make it easy to section off the right size while potty training your growing puppy.  The crate pan is replaceable and it's easy to attach water buckets or bowls to the inside of it.  It's not super easy to clean out and sanitize, in comparison to the plastic crate.

Plastic/Airline crates.
Plastic crates are thicker, less noisy (when dogs move around) and if a dog has an accident it will hold the accident instead of allow it to seep out of the sides.  They don't break down as easily as wire crates and aren't as easy to fit in places.  They can be sturdier than wire crates for dogs that are strong, unless you get larger gauge wire on the wire crates (special order).  They don't come with a divider so if you have a puppy you'll need to buy several to accommodate the puppy as it grows. It's easy to clean out and sanitize, compared to the all wire crates.

HOW TO GET YOUR DOG USED TO THE CRATE.
The best way to get your dog to love her crate is to get Susan Garrett's DVD, Crate Games and watch and follow it.  Yeah I know you wanted me to list specific stuff here but honestly this DVD is a game changer. It's superb. You need to get it. Actually even if your dog is already crate trained you should get this DVD and watch it, and follow it. 

Helpful tips.
1) Don't use the crate only for absences.
This is the single most important thing you can do.  Dogs need to know that being in a crate is a safe place and not only used when you are away.  This helps set your dog up to be quiet and secure when you need to utilize it for some of the benefits listed at the beginning of this blog post.

2) Feed your dog all meals in the crate.  
Feeding your dog in the crate will help your dog make good associations with the crate.  It can also help with puppies who often get too distracted to finish their meals and wander off after just taking a few bites.

3) Invest in a cover.
Some dogs do much better if the crate is covered. They make crate covers that fit crates perfectly or you can use an old blanket or sheet.  Some dogs don't care for the cover but for many it's a great way to help them quiet and/or feel secure and safe.

4) Take it slow.
Don't rush crate training, especially if it's totally new to you and the puppy or dog. While working on the crate training you can utilize a Safe Area that is a large x-pen with a crate (door open) with a bed, grass potty patch, toys and water. 

5) Don't be afraid to use it.
People so often read so much on the don'ts of crate training, including not to over-use it.  I find this scares people a lot and the end up under-using it, especially with puppies.  When a puppy or dog cannot be supervised it should be crated.  If a puppy is over-stimulated, it should be crated. If a dog is not trusted free in the home, it should be crated. 

Step-by-step guide to crate training.
My favorite article on steps to positively crate train your dog are written by of of my faves, Casey Lomonaco.  You can find her article on clickertraining.com here, under the title "Keeping the Holiday Peace".  It's a crate training piece, not geared to discuss holidays.

GETTING OUT OF THE CRATE STAGE
The biggest question I get from dog owners [about crates] is -- When can my dog not use the crate anymore?  The answer is -- it depends on your dog.  Each dog is different, and some are trustworthy early on (I've known some as early as 9 months of age) while others aren't trustworthy until they are well into adulthood (I've known some as late as 2+ years).

The best way to gauge it is to test it by leaving your dog un-crated for a very short period -- say 10 minutes -- and come back and check things out.  Was there any destruction, any potty accidents, any signs of stress?  Even if just one magazine was ripped up then I'd back up and use the crate a bit longer.  For some crating might be for life and for some crating is just safer and a way for the dog to feel more secure, forever.  It's just going to depend on each individual dog.

Stacy Greer
Sunshine Dog Training & Behavior, LLC

Potty Talk.

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Let's talk about potty problems.  I'll start with this ... if your dog is medically sound and you have potty issues the problem isn't the dog, it's the human(s).  Potty training is 99% a human problem not a dog problem.  The other 1% is dogs with medical conditions* that may contribute to potty problems.

Dogs (of all ages) have to be taught where to potty appropriately.  This means some commitment and dedication on your part as the dog's owner.  You'll need to take the dog out, wait for potty and then praise after the deed is done.  There really is no other reliable way to get a dog to learn where to appropriately go potty.

The best, quickest and most reliable way to potty train your dog is to crate train it.  The crate is used to keep dog safe and secure so that he cannot run around and have accidents where he shouldn't.  The crate trains the dog (when done properly) to hold it and wait to potty where you have designated as appropriate, not to potty in the crate.

Let's discuss a few myths surrounding potty training and crate training.

MYTH: Rubbing your dog's nose in it will teach the dog that it's wrong to go inside the house.
TRUTH:  This has to be the oldest trick known to dog training.  However it's very inaccurate advice and will not help during potty training, often causing your dog to sneak away and potty when you aren't looking.

Rubbing a dog's face in an accident or pointing out and telling them they are bad, really pretty much does nothing towards training goals.  It will likely make the dog run from you when it sees you coming to attempt to avoid having it's face shoved in pee or poop. I mean ewwww, who enjoys that?!  Dogs just don't possess the ability to comprehend, "Ah! I peed here 10 minutes ago and now I'm getting in trouble for it. I shouldn't choose to do this again!"

Dogs learn by association and timing is everything.  So, if the dog isn't literally caught "in the act" then anything after that is pointless, and quite frankly your fault for not paying closer attention to your dog.

What your dog will learn is that every time he goes outside and potties he gets praised.  This is how positive reinforcement works.  You give something to the dog to increase the likelihood of the behavior being repeated.  Therefore, your dog will learn that pottying in the location where you praise her for going is the best course of action!

When you do catch your dog "in the act" just quickly interrupt the behavior, "hey!" and get the dog to the approved potty area you have chosen.  Then praise after the deed is completed.

MYTH: A doggie door and/or another [already potty-trained] dog will teach your dog to go outside.
TRUTH: A doggie door is a way for your dog to get outside and back in, nothing more.  If you have not taught your dog that going outside is appropriate then the doggie door isn't going to do that for you.

If you have another dog that reliably potties outside that doesn't mean your dog will just watch and go as well.  I have heard of this happening from others, but never have had it happen in my experiences. Again, your dog has to be specifically taught where the appropriate location is to potty.


MYTH: Dogs can pee or poop out of spite.
TRUTH: If your dog is going potty as a new behavior and you think this means your dog is "mad at you" then we need to evaluate what's going on.  Dogs don't possess the ability to be spiteful.  The most common reason a dog will start to potty inappropriately is due to anxiety and/or stress to a new situation or one that has manifested into an anxiety-inducing situation for the dog.  However, this could also be due to a medical problem as well. This should always be checked first by a veterinarian and secondly by a qualified behavior consultant that understands dog behavior.

When this occurs this isn't usually even the dog relieving himself but rather anxiety marking.  This can be done by any gender of dog, not just males, as well as dogs that have been spayed/neutered.

MYTH: All dogs should be potty trained reliably by 6 months of age.
TRUTH:  There is no age that your dog will magically be potty trained.  Some breeds take longer than others so to put a blanket statement on a time frame would be inaccurate.

Size often isn't a factor either. I know that Greater Swiss Mountain dogs are a breed that can take some time to potty train according to breeders and owners of these large gorgeous dogs.  They are usually 85 lbs and up to 120 lbs.  So they are large dogs!   While Great Danes are famously known for their ease and speed of potty training.  I recall my Dane was reliably potty trained by 10-11 weeks of age.  I didn't believe all the breeders I spoke with that always told me they were super fast and potty trained so quickly.  However, I had that experience myself.

Smaller breeds are notoriously known for taking longer, some more than others, such as Bichons and Yorkies. I do believe their very tiny bladders don't help them out in this area either!

But even with all that said, each dog is individual and each can take their own time.  Also, owner commitment and consistency are the biggest factors in a reliably potty trained dog.

WHAT'S THE BEST WAY TO DO THIS QUICKLY?!
There is no way to fast track potty training.  Also, intelligence has no bearing on potty training. I often hear from clients that their dog must not be "smart" because the potty training is taking so long.  Usually other factors are hindering the process not a low doggie IQ!

DEFINE THE APPROPRIATE POTTY AREA
I always ask my clients -- Where do you want your dog to be going to the potty in say a year from now? This is where you need to take your dog each time during the training process to eliminate.  

IMPORTANT TIPS FOR SUCCESS 
1) Crate train, crate train, crate train. 
This is the best way to reliably house train your puppy and even your adult dog.  The crate is used as a tool to help your dog understand that she has to hold it until let out to the appropriate potty area.  The crate is used as a tool to help the puppy have a safe, warm and dry place to sleep and be put away when supervision isn't possible.
(Crate woes? Contact a trainer ASAP for help!)
Safe Area with grass patch.

2) Never put potty pads or a potty area inside the crate.  
Never put something that encourages a puppy or dog to go potty inside of a crate. The crate is not a potty, it's a home!  I've seen some people section off the crate with a potty pad/area on one end. Nope. Nope. Nopety. Nope.

3) Don't use potty pads.  Ever. 
This is a controversial one as some trainers do recommend these in some circumstances. I don't. Ever.  Potty pads have never, in my almost 18 years of training dogs, been a successful tool for potty training.  Often they work for a very short time until the dog either starts to use the potty near them but not on them or eats them.  After the potty pads are removed more often than not the dog will still go potty where the pad was, religiously too!  So, if you have pads in your home on the floor somewhere that will become your dog's regular potty area.

4) Use a Safe Area if needed.  
If you cannot get home to let a dog out every 4 hours (especially if you have a puppy under 5-6 months of age) or you live in an apartment/highrise you may want to look into a Safe Area.  This is a space blocked off by an x-pen with a potty patch of grass on one end and a bed, toys and water on the other.  Similar to the one in the pic above (although I'd have the bed further away from the potty patch.)

My all time favorite potty patch is Fresh Patch.  It's real grass that they send new rolls of grass to you when yours needs to be replaced.  More realistic [than fake grass or turf] for dogs that need to learn to transition to outdoor potty habits or that go outdoors as well as in the x-pen.  Also they make them for really big dogs too, extra plus!
bulldog puppy with Fresh Patch

5) Go out to potty area with your dog. Every. Single. Time.
Far too many times this is where the potty training fails, completely.  This is the make or break rule right here (especially with puppies under 5 months!)  You must, must, must go out with your dog to be able to witness and praise when your dog goes where appropriate.  This is the key to teaching your dog where to go appropriately. Watch, wait, then praise. You can give a little treat after they have completed the "job" but you can also just use verbal praise for this.

6) Supervise like a helicopter mom (or dad!)
Don't let a puppy out of sight.  Stop a puppy during play (about 10-15 minutes in) and take out to go potty regardless of behavior.  Take puppy out upon waking from any amount of sleep, before leaving the house and before going to bed (even naptime).  This is especially critical for really small dogs (under 15 lbs) and/or puppies under 5 months of age.  If you cannot supervise a puppy (even for 10 minutes) put the puppy in the Safe Area or crate the puppy.

For adult dogs that need to learn to potty in an appropriate location, take them to the designated potty location every 30-60 minutes for the first few weeks of being in your home.  Gradually increase the time between potty breaks as they become more accustomed to it and/or show reliability.  Crate when not able to be supervised.  Follow the rules for a puppy with dogs as well -- Take dog out upon waking from any amount of sleep, before leaving the house and before going to bed (even naptime).

7) Be consistent. 
Every single person that interacts with your dog must be consistent with the potty habits you've started.  If someone cannot supervise a young puppy or maintain the routine you've put into place then be sure the puppy or dog is crated so that no accidents or setbacks can occur.

8) Setbacks might happen.  Medical issues might too.*
Be prepared for setbacks and accidents in the beginning.  Keep your cool. Just stick with it. If it's taking longer than you feel it should or your dog starts to have potty accidents out of character then always, always, always seek the help of a veterinarian to rule out a medical cause for potty problems.

This applies to puppies and dogs of all ages.  UTIs are not uncommon and can be an easy fix.  There are also other medical things that could be a reason for doggie potty problems.  Discuss with your vet and don't assume that a young puppy cannot have a medical cause or a middle-aged-already-potty-trained dog cannot have a medical cause.  Some have little to no symptoms other than potty issues.  So always err on the side of caution with that before jumping to behavioral conclusions.  If medical problems are totally cleared by a veterinarian then seek the advice of a professional for help.

TROUBLESHOOTING
If all else fails, you are losing your mind [or your sleep] then please contact a trainer near you.  Potty issues are often a cause for people to relinquish their pets to a shelter.  This is very disheartening given that potty problems are totally fixable. So, when all else fails call in the pros!  

Can't afford a pro? Then go back to the beginning.  Start small, keep a potty journal, remain consistent and don't allow time for error.

Happy potty training!  Oh and don't forget to go read my next blog post, "Crate Training Truths & Tips".
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*It is always recommended that you clear your dog of any and all medical problems if you are having a heck of a time with potty training.  Ask your veterinarian for a urinalysis and/or sterile urine culture.  If needed maybe even blood work and/or an ultrasound of the bladder.  You and your vet can figure out the best plan of action to take. 

Stacy Greer
Sunshine Dog Training & Behavior, LLC

Crate Training Made Easy As 1-2-3

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puppies in their den
Luna's puppies emerging from their den

Crate training, when properly done, provides owners with peace of mind during those times when they cannot monitor the activities of their new puppy or dog. 


Dogs Love Their Dens and Crates


Dogs are essentially den animals by nature, meaning they instinctively enjoy being in dark close quarters.  In the wild, expectant mothers dig dens in order to whelp and raise their new puppies.  In fact, our border collie regularly digs dens or re-excavates old dens in accordance with her seasons to prepare for her coming or imaginary litters. 

These dens are relatively spacious, and will protect the puppies from the elements such as summer heat, winter snow and rain. Their den maintains a relatively constant temperature, as it is typically one foot underground.  Here the puppies will stay until they begin to walk and venture out short distances from the den, returning to the den to sleep and nurse.  With proper introduction to his new crate, your dog’s natural instincts will cause him or her to seek out his crate for nap time or as a safe haven in times of stress.

Step 1 - Selecting the Proper Crate


There are 3 basic types of crates on the market: the soft-sided crate, the wire mesh cage and the plastic hard-sided crate.  Save the soft-sided crate for later, at a time when the dog is properly crate trained and has learned to seek comfort in a crate.  Soft crates are easily destroyed, causing unnecessary expense to the owner, and teaching the dog that if they try hard enough, they will eventually be able to set themselves free. 

The soft crate is only appropriate for dogs who are already crate trained and comfortable in their private den area.  However, they are great for travel and indoor containment of the well mannered dog, as they offer den-like privacy via their mesh windows and adjustable fabric flaps.

The plastic or sheet metal sided crates are an excellent option for the adult dog.  They offer den-like privacy and are the only crates rated for air travel.  On the down side, plastic crates are not easy to disassemble and reassemble, which is not a problem for small dog crates, but becomes an issue when moving large dog crates within the home or on a trip from car to hotel room.   More importantly, they cannot be safely reconfigured to adapt for growing puppies.

wire crate
3 door wire crate with divider
This leaves the collapsible wire mesh crate with a movable divider as the preferred training crate for growing dogs as well as for travel with large dogs.  You will want to purchase a crate that will accommodate your puppy when fully grown, and that also includes a divider which you can use to limit his sleeping area.

When fitting his sleeping area, the sleeping space should allow for comfortable rest but should not be so large that it provides him with enough space for him stake out two areas: one for sleeping and one for eliminating. A puppy that gets into the habit of soiling his crate will be very difficult to house break. 

The privacy-den effect can be added to the wire crate by draping the crate with a sheet or towel.

Step 2 - Teaching Kennel-Up! 



  • On day one, it’s a good idea to start by teaching your dog to enter his crate on command.  You can begin by saying, “kennel-up”, “go to your crate,” “get in” or any phrase of your choosing, and then tossing a treat into the crate.  Your dog will quickly find going into the crate is a rewarding exercise.  
  • Initially leave the cage door open to let him come and go as he pleases.  
  • Repeat the training session several times during the first few days with 4-5 “kennel-ups” or “go-in’s” per session. 
  •  If you plan on using clicker training, you will want to click the clicker when the dog enters the crate to retrieve his reward.  
  • Once he begins to enter the crate on command, switch to treating him after he has entered the crate on his own.  
  • As his understanding of the command solidifies, you can begin to reward him intermittently.

Step 3 - Feed His Meals in the Crate



  • Give the command to “kennel-up,” and once the dog has entered the crate, give him his food, and shut the crate door.  
  • For young puppies, you will want to take them out for a potty break within 30-45 minutes after the puppy has finished his meal.  
  • If you have multiple dogs, crate feeding is a good way to prevent rapid eaters from muscling-out the slower eaters from their food bowls.


Bedtime: If possible, we recommend bringing the crate to your bedroom for bedtime to keep an eye on him and provide some extra comfort in his new surroundings. As the dog becomes more comfortable in his crate, you may choose to crate him in the evenings in another area of the house.  You can include a chew toy in the crate to entertain him until he exhausts; we recommend selecting one without a squeaker.   

Be prepared, you may have a night or two of your dog or puppy “crying” himself to sleep.  Be careful not to let the dog out of his crate while he is barking or misbehaving.  Only let him out when he is behaving himself, unless you suspect he is about to have a potty accident.  

You can recognize a puppy or dog that is in need of a potty break, if you see him turning in circles and looking at the bottom of the crate.  In that instance carry him outside for a potty (literally if this is a young puppy), praise him for the potty, give him a short walk as a reward and then return him to the crate for the evening.  

Remember to give him a small reward for kenneling-up at bedtime as well.  In the morning, be careful to get your dog to his potty area immediately after leaving his kennel.  With young puppies, carry them outside to avoid unintended accidents on the way to the door.

A Word of Caution On Puppy Crating Durations

While sleeping in the evenings, the dog’s digestive system slows down considerably, allowing him to remain crated for an 8 hour stretch.  During the daytime, dogs should be crated a maximum of 4 to 5 hours at a time.  It is important that during their crate time they have access to water; a stainless steel pail hooked to the side of the crate or crate door works best. 

Young puppies require more frequent potty breaks than adults.  Puppy ages and their relative maximum crating times are:

8-10 weeks 30-60 minutes
11-14 weeks 1-3 hours
15-16 weeks 3-4 hours
17+ weeks 4-5 hours
happy dog in crate
By Taro the Shiba Inu (@_tar0_ scores a goal!
[CC-BY-2.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0)],
via Wikimedia Commons


If you are on a working schedule that prevents you from coming home to give your dog regular potty breaks, you will want to create an indoor pen area or hire a professional dog walker.  

When creating an indoor pen, select a site with an easy to clean floor and provide puppy potty training pads, so that he has an appropriate area to eliminate on.  Most puppy training pads come with a scent to encourage elimination on them and not other areas of the pen. 

Before leaving for work and penning or crating your puppy or dog, be sure to give him at least 30 to 60 minutes of exercise depending on his size and age. Make sure to release him as soon as you return.  Your arrival will trigger excitement and speed up his digestive system.

When you are home and enjoying time with your new puppy or dog, leave the door to the crate open, and you will soon find that he looks forward to relaxing in his own private area.  If you are planning on a task that you expect your dog to find unpleasant, such as a bath, close the door to the crate before he realizes your intentions, so that he cannot hide in it.  You want to avoid turning his safe haven into a battle ground with you trying to drag him out of his den.

You can use these same techniques to introduce your dog to his new dog house.  While we do not advocate leaving dogs outside 24x7, dog houses do provide shelter from the elements when a sudden storm comes up and provides a cool refuge on a hot summer day.

Visit 4 Best Dog Houses to learn more about what the best dog houses have to offer.