What is Positive Reinforcement in Dog Training?

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What is Positive Reinforcement in Dog Training?

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A user-friendly guide to everything you need to know about positive reinforcement.

If you are new to dogs, or new to dog training, this article is for you. It covers technical definitions, the practicalities, reasons to use positive reinforcement and some common mistakes that people make.

At the end, there are suggested resources in case you want to learn more. Positive reinforcement training is fun, and lots of people get the training bug. Hopefully that will include you too.

We’ll get the technical definition out of the way first.

What is positive reinforcement? 

Positive reinforcement is a very effective way to train dogs (and other animals).

Positive reinforcement means adding something immediately after a behaviour occurs that makes the frequency of the behaviour go up.

Technically speaking, the term breaks down into two parts. Reinforcement means the behaviour continues or goes up in frequency. (If the behaviour went down instead, it’s not reinforcement).

And positive means something is added.

For example, you ask the dog to sit, the dog sits, and you give him a treat (something is added). The dog is more likely to sit next time you ask (the behaviour was reinforced).

What kind of reward is used in positive reinforcement? 

For most dog training, food is the best reward to use. That’s because all dogs like food, and it’s efficient because you can deliver it quickly.

Play is sometimes used as a reward in dog training. For example, a game of tug or fetch. You may even have seen some working dogs or agility dogs be rewarded with a game of tug.

In practise food works best for most everyday dog training situations. You can deliver it much more quickly (think how long it takes to play a game of tug, compared to how long it takes your dog to gobble a treat). That means you can do another repetition right away. Also, sometimes play will get in the way of what you are trying to teach.

Petting and praise are sometimes suggested as rewards. But you have to think about it from the dog’s perspective – and yes, scientists have thought about it too. One study found dogs are not interested in praise. It has to be conditioned to mean something. For example, if “good boy” is always followed by a treat, then they will learn it predicts a treat; but otherwise, nada, it’s meaningless (read more on whether dogs prefer petting or praise).

Most dogs do like petting, but the same scientists found that dogs prefer food to petting as a reward in dog training. And in case you’re wondering, there are other studies that compared food to petting as a reward in a dog training situation.  They also found food leads to better results.

The efficiency issue is relevant too: food is quicker.

So food is the best reward to use as positive reinforcement.

What kind of food rewards should I use with my dog? 

There’s a huge variety of food rewards, ranging from treats you can buy from the pet store to types of human food that are suitable for dogs and treats that you make yourself.

Pick something your dog really likes, because that means it will motivate them. Of course it needs to fit within an overall balanced diet. You may also want to vary the rewards, either just to provide variety or to suit the task you are training.

For example, if you are doing a lot of training, little cubes of chicken might be most appropriate because it’s a healthy component of a dog’s diet. Or you could use treats that are tiny so that you aren’t over-feeding (some come in miniature size). At other times, pieces of cheese or deli meats might be appropriate in suitable quantities. Use your very best rewards for teaching recall (i.e. to come when called).

Types of food you can use in positive reinforcement training include: little pieces of chicken; squares of roast beef; cubes of cheese (Cheddar, Parmesan, etc.); tiny dried fish; carrot; peanut butter treats; tuna fudge; tripe stick; rollover; Vienna Sausage; spam; Zuke’s minis or Fruitables minis; Rawbble; dog biscuits; various chews or jerky strips; freeze-dried salmon; dried herring; salami; pieces of ham; turkey; bits of meat balls…

Did some of those items make your mouth water? That’s good, because that’s the effect you want it to have on your dog! Of course you don’t use a whole slice of ham all at once. Use something about the size of a pea. Why not try out several different food rewards to find out which your dog prefers?

As well as bite-size pieces, you can also deliver food rewards via a tube for the dog to lick. You can buy some ready-made (e.g. leanlix or Lickety Stik) or you can make your own using squeeze tubes (often found with camping supplies) or the TreatToob.

And although cats should not be fed dog food, it’s fine to give your dog cat food, and that can make a tasty reward too.

If purchasing treats, read the ingredients to check you are happy with them from a nutritional perspective, and go for something you think your dog will find tasty (duck, turkey, salmon, bacon, peanut butter, etc.).

Make sure it is safe for dogs. If buying human food for your dog, look out for onion (in some meat and other products) and xylitol (e.g. in some brands of peanut butter), neither of which is safe for dogs.

If you prefer to make your own treats, here is a recipe for tuna fudge. You can substitute different ingredients, e.g. swap tuna for canned salmon or sardines.

How can I use positive reinforcement if my dog is on a special diet? 

If your dog is on a special diet, you can still use food rewards. One easy option is to use the canned version of whatever special kibble you normally feed. (If delivering it on a spoon, just be careful your dog doesn’t eat the spoon; they may need some practise at licking it, or you might prefer to use a food tube).

Another option could be something that is an ingredient in the special diet (whether that’s chicken or fish or whatever). You might also be able to tailor the tuna fudge recipe with ingredients that are right for your dog.

What do professional dog trainers use as rewards? 

I asked Kristi Benson CTC what type of reward she uses when training dogs. Kristi is a dog trainer in Manitoba, Canada, and a staff member at the Academy for Dog Trainers.

She said, “I like to use food, and types of food that I like to use are things that are choppable into small pieces and that can go down the hatch really quickly, so the dogs can eat them quickly so that I can recycle and do another trial really quickly.

"I also like using stuff that dogs really like, so stuff that’s a little bit grouty, a little bit stinky, like smoked fish kind of stuff. Sometimes I use cheese. I do buy rollover sometimes, I know that’s kind of the junk food, it’s a little bit junk foody. But then I say to myself well, you know I get junk food occasionally too, so if I’m not training a dog that often… And it’s very easy, and you know it’s supposed to be a complete meal which seems reasonable.

"And I also use some recipes that are floating around the dog training community, and they’re like tuna fudge, liver brownies. And then I have another recipe that I like which is made out of eggs, because we get a lot of eggs here on the farm so, if we have an extra dozen eggs it’s nice to make an egg dish. And those are baked into squares, and you can cut those up.” (Kristi has published the treat recipes on her website).

And for recall: “I go volume with recall when I’m training my dogs, just because it’s easier. But I recommend to my clients things like tinned tripe in a tube, to really ratchet up the palatability factor, along with amount. So give them quite a bit and give them something that’s really delicious.”

 

What is not positive reinforcement 

Sometimes people make the mistake of calling the moment when something unpleasant stops positive reinforcement. It’s not.

For example, some shock collar trainers pretend that when the electric shock stops, it is rewarding for the dog. It is not.

Relief is not the same as a reward.

Remember too: positive reinforcement means something has been added. Stopping something is the opposite of adding something.

It’s worth being alert to this because there are many weasel words used in dog training and there’s a lot of erroneous dog training information on the internet.

Because there is no regulation of dog trainers, this is unfortunately something dog owners need to be aware of.

But my dog is not food-motivated! 

This is something I hear from time to time. If it is truly the case that your dog is not interested in food then you need to take him to see a vet. If your dog is not eating there may be an underlying medical problem that needs urgent investigation.

More often when people say this it turns out the food they are using is not particularly motivating. For example, they prefer to use kibble, but this is not exciting enough to motivate their dog.

It’s a common mistake for people to make when they are new to dog training. If this applies to you, check the list above to find another food item to try. And then a different item too. You can audition a few to see which are your dog’s favourites – and remember that variety can help as well.

Sometimes people are reluctant to use food in dog training, and that’s why they are using kibble. But you have to feed your dog, so you might as well make some of it tasty food to use in training.

Some people are worried it might affect their relationship with their dog – perhaps they fear their dog doesn’t really love them if he wants to work for food. But your dog can love you and food (there’s even an fMRI study to show it).

And when you see that happy, expectant look on your dog’s face when they are about to receive a cookie, doesn’t it fill you with a lovely warm mushy feeling?

Why use positive reinforcement in dog training? 

Many studies find that people who use reward-based training methods report their dogs as being more obedient than those who use aversive techniques. Using positive reinforcement is better for the human-canine bond and better for animal welfare than using negative reinforcement. Also, a past history of using positive reinforcement in dog training is linked to better success at teaching a new behaviour. (If you want to read the research for yourself, see my list of dog training research resources).

In contrast, the use of punishment has been associated with an aggressive response from some dogs  and the use of aversive techniques is a risk factor for aggression towards both family members and strangers outside the home.

Although these studies are correlational and do not prove causation, there are several things that might explain it. One is that positive reinforcement teaches your dog what to do, instead of simply punishing them for a behaviour (which doesn’t teach them a new behaviour to do instead).

Another is that dogs may find punishment stressful, and if they associate the owner as the cause of the punishment, it may affect the relationship with their owner.

There’s another reason to use positive reinforcement: dogs like to work to earn rewards (dubbed the ‘Eureka! effect’). And scientists now recommend that good animal welfare includes positive experiences.

So using positive reinforcement in dog training is good for your dog. For more information, see my article seven reasons to use reward-based dog training methods.

Why is positive reinforcement not working? 

If you’re thinking, “But I tried positive reinforcement and it didn’t work!” there are several possible reasons.

Perhaps the most common is not using the right reward to motivate the dog. Go back to the list of suggested food rewards and find something tastier to try.

But there are several other possible reasons too. Here are a few of them.

Maybe you aren’t using a plan but are making it up as you go along. You’ll get better results if you follow a plan. (If you want to learn more, see Jean Donaldson’s Train Your Dog Like a Pro which includes sample plans for obedience behaviours).

Maybe you aren’t delivering the food rewards fast enough. For example, you ask your dog to lie down, but by the time you are ready to give them the reward, they have already jumped up and moved around so in fact you rewarded the wrong behaviour. You need to have the rewards ready to be delivered quickly.

Maybe because you know you have to deliver the rewards quickly, you are actually moving your hand to your bait bag or crinkling your baggie before the dog has done the behaviour you asked for. That’s very confusing. A hint you might be doing this is if your dog is busy watching your treat hand!

Or perhaps you’re just making it too hard for the dog. It’s very common to think the dog has learned the behaviour when they just practised it once or twice. It’s like if you were learning to waltz; moving your feet the right way a few times isn’t enough to be able to waltz; it takes more practice. Your dog needs lots of practise too.

And speaking of practise, you also have to build up the distractions very slowly. Just because your dog knows how to sit in the kitchen when nothing else is happening, doesn’t mean he can still sit at the park when other dogs are running around, a child is approaching and a skunk just popped out from behind a tree. That’s a sudden leap in difficulty!

These are all things you can work on, but dog training is a skilled activity and there is nothing to be ashamed of if you are struggling. You may need to ask for help from a qualified dog trainer or take your dog to a class. Because dog training is not regulated, make sure you read my article on how to choose a dog trainer first and pick someone who is suitably qualified.

See below for some suggestions for further reading if you want to work on your training technique.

But the trainer says it won’t work for my dog?! 

Some dog trainers will say ‘positive reinforcement isn’t working’ or ‘it won’t work for this dog’ as an attempt to justify using a shock collar.

First of all, remember that dog training isn’t regulated. Look through the list above of some of the technical things dog trainers need to learn. Unfortunately it’s possible that some people are making mistakes themselves and blaming it on the dog.

Secondly, it’s important to know there are risks to the use of a shock collar. One experimental study in the UK concluded that shock collars do not work any better than positive reinforcement for teaching dogs to come when called in the presence of livestock. They also found negative effects on welfare for some dogs.

Look after your dog, and don’t let a dog trainer use methods you aren’t happy with.

(See more resources on shock collars).

Do I have to use a clicker? 

It’s up to you.

Clickers are used to mark the moment the dog is doing the right behaviour. It’s very quick, so it buys you time to get the treat out and give it to your dog.

Some people absolutely love using a clicker. They also think it helps improve their technique (perhaps because they are paying close attention to when to click, and not to move before then).

Some people really don’t like the clicker. They find it clunky and awkward or too complicated. Luckily for them, there is a study that found using a clicker versus a verbal marker or no marker at all (just food rewards) didn’t make much difference to training success. This is something we need more research on.

For behaviours that are brief and fleeting, a marker (your voice or a clicker) will really help. But for many of the behaviours we teach, like sit and lie down and come when we call, we don’t need such precise timing.

The most important thing is to use food rewards to train your dog. If you try the clicker and like it, that’s great, and lots of people do. But if you don’t like it, don’t worry about it. Just keep using food.

Will I always have to use positive reinforcement? 

This is a common question and it’s easily answered with another question: Will you want your dog to keep doing the behaviour? If so, you’ll want to keep rewarding it.

Now, you might not always reward every single time. Using an intermittent reinforcement schedule (in which the behaviour is only rewarded sometimes) can help build up resistance to extinction (that’s when the behaviour stops). That’s useful, because in real life there might be an occasion when you forgot to put some dog treats in your pocket.

But it’s a very common mistake to stop rewarding a behaviour altogether. The end result is that the dog stops doing it, and people say “I tried it, and it didn’t work.” Actually, the technical term is extinction: you extinguished the behaviour because you stopped rewarding it.

Another very common mistake is to not reward a behaviour often enough.

Remember that dogs like to work for food, and you have to feed your dog anyway. Training for food rewards is a good way to exercise your dog’s brain and provide enrichment. Instead of trying to stop, it's best to keep thinking of new things to teach your dog.

For the people training their cats… 

You can use positive reinforcement with any species, and that includes cats. Remember that because cats are small, they only need small rewards. Check out my interview with Dr. Sarah Ellis about her book The Trainable Cat to learn more.

Final words and further reading on positive reinforcement

Hopefully this article has provided you with useful information about the use of positive reinforcement in dog training. If you liked it, please share with your friends.

If you would like to stay up-to-date with the latest news about the science of people and their pets, subscribe to Companion Animal Psychology.  And if there are topics you would like to read about in future, please let me know (subscribers can simply hit the reply button).

What type of food reward does your dog like best?


Further reading 
Excel-Erated Learning: Explaining in Plain English How Dogs Learn and How Best to Teach Them by Pamela Reid.

Culture Clash by Jean Donaldson. (You might also like to check out my interview with Jean Donaldson to mark 20 years since the first publication of this influential book).

Train Your Dog Like a Pro by Jean Donaldson.

The Other End of the Leash: Why We Do What We Do Around Dogs by Patricia McConnell.

The Power of Positive Dog Training by Pat Miller.

Don't Shoot the Dog: The New Art of Teaching and Training by Karen Pryor.

If you want to know more about any of the studies mentioned in this article, click the link and you will be taken to a page with a summary, the full reference, and a link to the academic paper. For a more complete list, check out my dog training research resources page which lists scientific papers about dog training and places where you can read about them for free, on this blog and elsewhere.


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Attention Hog.

attention seeking barking begging demanding dog discipline for my dog dog behavior dog training

Attention Hog.

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Is your dog an attention hog ... ok, an attention-seeker? Barks demandingly? Paws at you demandingly? Whines?  If so, you're not alone.  Even better news: It's totally fixable, curable actually (which means you can make it go away for good!)

Here is the first thing you should know about attention-seeking behaviors: they are learned behaviors. This means somewhere along the way someone has reinforced them and therefore they continue because they work for the dog.

So, this means the dog's behaviors can be fixed if you change your response to the behaviors.

DEFINING ATTENTION-SEEKING BEHAVIORS
Let's discuss defining what attention-seeking behaviors are and are not.  If a dog has a need that should be met -- needs to potty, hungry, etc. -- then the need should be addressed.  However, if the dog is just demanding one of those things but it's not a need at that moment then they are in fact using at attention-seeking behaviors to gain something they desire at that exact moment.

Puppies will be an exception in many of these situations.  Young puppies, under 5 months, are especially going to be more difficult to determine if they need to go potty or if they are just wanting attention, etc.  So you'll have to really get to know your puppy to know how to differentiate between needs that should be met or if the puppy is actually being demanding. When puppies are young I often give in to the behavior, whether it's a need or attention-seeking and address it later if it does become more of an attention-seeking behavior rather than a need. (More on this below)

HUNGRY OR DEMANDING FOOD?
As far as hunger goes, we have complete control of our dogs' meals and food (or we should, read: no free feeding!).  Therefore no dog should be demanding food, ever.  If they are it's an attention-seeking behavior not an actual need. (Note: If your dog does in fact act as if they are always hungry please have a vet check, including a full blood panel just to be safe.)

This also applies to puppies. All puppies should be fed on a schedule and when younger than 5 months should be fed 3-4 times a day.  This would definitely ensure that they aren't hungry throughout the day and shouldn't have a reason to demand food.  So, if your dog is medically sound there is no reason they should be demanding food; if they are then this is an attention-seeking behavior.

NEEDS TO POTTY OR DEMANDING TO GO OUT?
Needing to go potty is going to be the most common reason for a dog barking, whining, pawing or other behaviors that would be legitimate/may not fall into the attention-seeking category as easily.  Dogs will all use different behaviors to show they need to go potty.  The problem with this is the fine line between do they really need to potty or are they just demanding to go out or get your attention?

This is where it's important for you to know your dog and take several factors into account.  Did your dog potty 10 minutes prior? Did your dog drink water recently? Did your dog eat within an hour or so? Did your dog see a squirrel outside? Does your dog have a bit of diarrhea?  Does your dog know the neighbor's dog is out and want to go bark at him?

So, if you are certain your dog does not actually need to go out to relieve herself then she is likely just offering attention-seeking behaviors in the hopes that you'll let her out.

A SIDE EFFECT.
A little side effect, if you will, of dogs that get attention when they want is dogs that cannot learn to do nothing.  This really is an indirect form of attention-seeking: dogs that cannot do nothing.  When we have dogs we feel must always be engaged with us or doing something -- Oh he needs to be walked! Oh she needs to be jogged! Oh he needs to play! Oh she needs to be trained! -- then we create a dog that actually does need attention all the time or he'll drive you coo-coo-bananas. While those are all very important things to all dogs it becomes a problem when the dog is used to getting it all the time.  It can fall into the attention-seeking behavior category because they cannot just lie down and do nothing. They need attention in some form all the time.  Sadly, we create this. Giving into attention-seeking behaviors often snowballs into other things -- a dog that cannot just be ok with doing nothing and allowing you to watch TV or talk on the phone or read this blog! So, there are side effects to these types of behaviors as well.

I recommend all dogs like this should be taught how to relax on a mat. This is different than "go to your bed" or being told to go do something on cue.  This is actually teaching a dog to chill out, no their own. Nan Arthur, author of "Chill Out Fido" has a neat-o handout on this, click here.


OKAY ... SO, HOW DO I ADDRESS IT?!
Ok.  So now you're pretty sure you know how to define if your dog actually needs something or is demanding it (using an attention-seeking behavior to get what he wants).  The big question now is -- So how do I get my dog to stop being annoying?!

Quick answer:  Do nothing.
Explained: Do not look at your dog, do not talk to your dog, do not pet your dog, do not touch your dog, do not tell your dog to "go away", do not tell your dog to "go lay down", do not tell your dog to "sit" . . . you get the idea. Don't do anything, literally, do nothing. You might gently put your dog in his crate.  Not as a punishment but a way to get her away from you and to leave you alone, especially if you cannot ignore the dog. (No, this won't cause problems with associations with the crate.) In that moment your dog does not exist. You must ignore him completely.  While this is a very simple answer it's not an easy one.

It's not easy because ignoring a demanding dog is very difficult.  Most people have a very hard time doing this.  The dog is being annoying. Not, only this, if you do in fact start to ignore the dog the behavior will increase before it ceases completely.  These are the laws of psychology.  There is something called an extinction burst.  An extinction burst is a predictable and common blast of defiance from the recesses of a brain denied familiar rewards.  The brain makes a last ditch effort to return to it's old ways.  

So you're drudging along, ignoring like a champ, the dog finally stops quicker than normal and you feel like you're making great headway ... then suddenly the dog starts barking and scratching you.  Possibly even one of those behaviors isn't one that he did before.  You think -- forget this, it's not working! Look! Now he's scratching at me, he never did this before!  But alas, this actually is great news. This means your dog is trying hard to make that last attempt to break you.  A last attempt to get what he wants -- he's going through an extinction burst.  This means your efforts are working! Do not give up! Keep up the good work!

Here is a handy little chart you can use for a what to do and what not to do.

DOG’S ACTION/BEHAVIOR	WHAT YOU SHOULD DO	WHAT YOU SHOULD NOT DO
puts paw at/on you, our nudges you to elicit attention	if sitting, stand up, walk out of the room; if standing turn & walk away	look at, pet, talk to or push the dog
whines or barks for attention/because he wants something or attention	if sitting, stand up, walk out of the room; if standing turn & walk away	tell the dog to be quite, look at, pet or acknowledge the dog in any way
drops a toy at your feet or in your lap to elicit play or games	if sitting, stand up, walk out of the room; if standing turn & walk away	look at, pet, talk to or push the dog
nips, mouths or grabs your hand/foot/clothing/shoes	put dog in crate, quietly & calmly  OR quickly get up & walk to the nearest room, close the door behind you, leave dog on other side of the door for 30 sec—1 min	pull away, push the dog away, yell, scream, look at, pet or acknowledge the dog in any way

TROUBLESHOOTING.

• What happens when you do the above and the behavior is still strong or your dog starts a new annoying behavior in its place?
• As stated above this often happens when things are in fact working and an extinction burst occurs. This indicates that your efforts are working and your dog is trying a last attempt to get what he wants.  You must remain strong, keep doing what you're doing, which should be a Professional Ignorer. 
• What happens when I just cannot ignore the barking? It's incessant!!
• I totally empathize with this. It's super hard to ignore a barking dog. It bothers me to no end, so I get it.  However if you cannot ignore the behavior then you'll have to face the reality that it will continue, plain and simple. 
• I live in an apartment, so ignoring my dog that is barking is going to be hard.  Any creative ideas?
• This does present a problem as neighbors may not be too keen to suffer through your new training regime.  
• If your dog does barking only for attention but not if you leave then I'd use the front door as my escape.  Dog barks for attention -- walk out of the door.  If your dog is crate trained and is quiet in the crate then gently put dog in crate as soon as she starts barking.  Cover crate if you have to, with a sheet or blanket.

If none of the above seems to work for you, it's going to be hugely beneficial that you find a trainer near you to come in and help you.  Usually attention-seeking behaviors come with a few other things that could be tweaked to benefit the dog long term.  

Happy training from your favorite red-headed dog trainer in Texas. 

Stacy Greer

Sunshine Dog Training & Behavior, LLC

sunshinedog.com

How to Choose a Dog Trainer

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How to Choose a Dog Trainer

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How to choose the right dog trainer for you and your dog.

Whether you want to take part in obedience classes or arrange private sessions to resolve your dog’s behaviour problem, choosing the right dog trainer can be a difficult decision.

Because dog training is unlicensed, anyone can call themselves a dog trainer, regardless of whether or not they have any education.

So what should you look for?

The most important choice in hiring a dog trainer

When choosing a dog trainer, the most important thing is to find a trainer who uses reward-based dog training methods, which they might call positive reinforcement, force-free, or humane training methods.

However, just because you see those words on someone’s website, does not mean they actually use those methods (see below for the questions you should ask).

Reward-based dog training is based on either giving a reward (to make a behaviour more likely to happen again) or withholding a reward (to make the behaviour less likely to occur).

Technically speaking, using rewards to make a behaviour increase in frequency is called positive reinforcement. That’s why some dog trainers call themselves positive reinforcement dog trainers.

Others call themselves force-free or humane dog trainers, to distinguish themselves from people who use aversive techniques such as electric shock, prong collars, leash ‘corrections’, ‘alpha rolls’ or the like.

 

In practice, the reward that works best is food. It is possible to use other types of reward, such as play, but food is more efficient because it’s faster to deliver; it’s better for most dog training scenarios (for example, if you’re teaching a dog to sit-stay, play will encourage your dog to jump out of the sit); and all dogs love food.

So in other words, you want a dog trainer who will use food to train your dog.

That’s because there are risks to using aversive techniques. Those risks include making the dog aggressive or fearful, and these are serious problems that can take a long time to fix (if at all).

If you want to know more, check out my article seven reasons to use reward-based dog training.

Or if you want to know more about the scientific research, check out my dog training research resources page which lists articles on dog training methods (and places where you can read about those articles for free).

If your dog is on a special diet, don’t worry. There is always something tasty that fits with a special diet and that will motivate your dog. Once you’ve found a good dog trainer, tell them about your dog’s dietary needs.

So, now you know you need to find a reward-based dog trainer, what next?

What qualifications should you look for in a dog trainer?

Remember I said at the beginning that anyone can call themselves a dog trainer. But dog training is actually a skilled activity, and it also requires knowledge. Just to mention a few things, dog trainers need good timing, to be able to read a dog’s body language, to understand learning theory (that’s part of the technical information), and to have good people skills so they can explain it all to dog owners in a way they can understand.

So it’s not enough if someone has always loved dogs, or grown up with them. In fact that part doesn’t matter. You need to find a dog trainer who is qualified.

The best qualifications you can find are CTC and KPA CTP (those are the letters that will appear after your dog trainer’s name).

Don’t just take my word for it. In an article for veterinarians about what to look for in a dog trainer, veterinary behaviourist Dr. Lisa Radosta recommends trainers with the KPA or CTC and says these are the two programs she relies on for finding dog trainers.

Photo: rebeccaashworth; top, Mila Atkovska (both Shutterstock.com)

 
Both programs require course work and have examinations.

The CTC is an advanced, two-year program from the Academy for Dog Trainers, which covers both dog training and behaviour. The Academy is known as “the Harvard of Dog Training” and is run by world-renowned dog trainer Jean Donaldson. You can find an Academy dog trainer here.

KPA CTP means that someone has taken the Karen Pryor Academy Dog Trainer Professional program. This is a six-month program and you can find graduates here.

Graduates of these two programs will only use reward-based training methods.

If you’ve found multiple dog trainers with CTC and/or KPA CTP in your area, you’ve got several to choose from and can move on to the next section of this article.

If you haven’t, then you can look for people who have CPDT-KA, CPDT-KSA, or CBCC-KA (all assessed by the Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers) or the PCT-A or PCBC-A (assessed by the Pet Professional Accreditation Board). Again, these are people who have had their knowledge of dog training assessed.

These are not the only dog training certifications. It’s actually quite a confusing situation for consumers, which is why I’ve chosen to focus on the main credentials. There are other kinds of credentials you might look for if your dog has serious behavioural problems, and I’ll get to those later in the article.

Membership of a professional dog training organization

Another thing to look for in a dog trainer is membership of a professional organization.

There are several organizations that a dog trainer might be a member of. One is the Pet Professional Guild, which is committed to force free dog training. Members of this organization will only use reward-based training methods.

Another organization is the Association of Professional Dog Trainers.  Note that this organization follows an approach called LIMA, which stands for ‘least invasive, minimally aversive’ which (as you can tell from the name) allows for the use of aversives in some cases, so quiz the trainer on the methods they will use. They say that "we allow trainers with all methodologies to join with the goal of exposing them to humane, science-based training methods. However, this does not mean that all trainers in our directory subscribe to this philosophy..." so you need to find out for yourself which methods they actually use.


By the way, APDTs in other countries are independent, have their own member assessments and follow their own guidelines; for example the APDT(UK) only allows its members to use non-compulsive methods.

If a dog trainer says that they are a member of a particular organization, remember that you don’t have to take their word for it. You should be able to look them up via that organization’s directory to verify their membership.

What about continuing education for dog trainers?

Like any other profession, dog trainers ought to stay up-to-date on developments in their field.

Again, since dog training is not regulated, there’s no requirement for them to continue to learn. However, professional organizations do have continuing education requirements for their members.

If you are considering a dog trainer, check to see what continuing education they have listed on their website.

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If they are a brand new dog trainer, they may not yet have had time to complete much continuing education (but make sure they have some education, as already mentioned). Over time, the list of continuing education courses should get longer.

Some of this training may take place at annual conferences, such as those of the organizations listed above. Some of it may be online, via webinars or other distance learning opportunities. Some dog trainers will even be giving talks and seminars at dog training conferences themselves.

There are certain names that are a very good sign. For example, if someone has attended training with the likes of Jean Donaldson, Karen Pryor, Kathy Sdao, Chirag Patel, Ken Ramirez, Ian Dunbar, or Bob Bailey, that’s very promising, because these are all important names in science-based dog training.

There are also some additional certifications available to dog trainers who are interested in them. These include Fear Free certification (for trainers interested in making vet visits less stressful for their clients; maybe your veterinarian is also Fear Free certified?); Certified Separation Anxiety Trainers certified by Malena deMartini (for dog trainers specializing in separation anxiety); courses from the Karen Pryor Academy such as DogSports Essentials or Canine Freestyle; and courses for advanced professionals (webinars on demand) from the Academy for Dog Trainers.

What methods will they actually use to train your dog?

At the start of this article, I mentioned that some dog trainers may say they use positive reinforcement but not actually use it when working with your pet.

One reason for this is that they know there is demand for positive reinforcement and, well, dog training isn’t regulated.

One clue that they might not only use reward-based training is if they refer to themselves as ‘balanced’. Usually, balanced is used to mean that they also use punishment or ‘corrections’. And unfortunately, that means balanced dog training is not a good thing.

Another clue is if the dog trainer refers to ‘cookie pushers’ in a derogatory way or says that they train without food. Remember, you are looking to find a dog trainer who will use food to train your dog. If they say they don’t use food, cross them straight off your list.

And yet another clue is if you are reading through customer testimonials and they happen to refer to a shock collar. Or if the trainer has an online shop, and that’s what they sell.

If they mention dominance or being the alpha or pack leader, this tells you they are using out-dated methods too. For more information, see the AVSAB position statement on the use of dominance theory in behaviour modification of animals. Again, cross them off your list.

Transparency in dog training

Because there is no regulation in dog training, Jean Donaldson of the Academy for Dog Trainers started the transparency challenge. These are three questions to ask dog trainers about how they will train your dog. If you don’t like the answers, keep looking.

If you want to know more about the transparency challenge, you can watch the Academy's video about transparency in dog training, and read my interview with Jean Donaldson. (The interview celebrates 20 years since publication of Donaldson's influential book, Culture Clash, which should be on your reading list if it is not already).

Customer testimonials and social media

When you think you’ve identified a good dog trainer, read the customer testimonials and look at their social media accounts just to double-check that you are happy with your choice.

Hopefully they will have lots of positive comments from clients.

Many dog trainers also have social media accounts such as Facebook, Twitter or Instagram where they share interesting articles and photos of their client’s dogs.

If you hire them and you are agreeable, they may even share photos of your dog looking happy in a training session. (If you don’t want them to, that’s fine, just let them know; they should ask anyway).

Some dog trainers even have blogs that you can follow for useful pieces of advice and to keep up to date on their activities.

As above, if you see any signs here that a trainer uses shock collars, prong collars, pins dogs to the floor, refers to dominance or alpha rolls, or other kinds of aversive method, find another trainer.

What if I can’t find a good dog trainer in my town?

Some people are lucky and will have many good dog trainers to choose from. Other people might be unlucky, and struggle to find a dog trainer they are happy with.

In these cases, you could see if there is a suitable dog trainer in a nearby town. They will probably charge mileage to come out to you, but sometimes it’s worth it to work with the right person.

Another option is an internet consultation. These days, an increasing number of dog trainers are willing to offer consultations via Skype or telephone. This gives you a much wider choice of people to work with, and sometimes will be the best option. (Obviously, this only works for private consultations, and not for classes).

Choosing between classes and private dog training lessons?

Maybe you already know the answer to the question of whether you would like to attend dog training classes or have private lessons, but there are several things to consider.

If you have a puppy, then puppy class is usually the best option. Some trainers offer one-off puppy parties, but in the only study that looked at this, they found that a six-week puppy class offers better results in the long run.  So if you want to go to puppy parties, it's probably better to sign up for several, to get more socialization and play with other puppies.

A puppy class must be exactly what it says – for puppies only, no adult dogs.

Puppy class will include socialization as well as basic obedience exercises. Your puppy should have some opportunities to play with the other puppies, and a good class will separate the shy puppies from the boisterous ones so that no one becomes overwhelmed.

Some dog trainers offer private sessions for puppies. These can be a good choice, but because socialization is so important for puppies, you need to ensure either that the trainer will include socialization as part of the package, or to make sure to do it yourself. A good trainer will explain this to you.

Classes for adult dogs usually cover basic obedience and can continue through to more advanced levels, including Canine Good Citizen certification.

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Some dog trainers also offer classes for reactive dogs; if you have a reactive dog and are tempted by this, check that the class is small, and that your dog will not be ‘over threshold’ during class (in other words, find it too difficult due to other dogs being too close by). These classes can work well, but some reactive dogs will need private sessions instead.

Many people enjoy the social atmosphere of classes, and the opportunity to meet other dogs and their owners. Make sure you are happy with the size of the class, because small classes are generally better. Classes will usually have at least one assistant to help the trainer and maybe more, depending on class size.

Classes are also available for a whole range of fun activities including agility, tricks, nose work, Treibball, flyball. etc. There may be opportunities to try these out with your dog or to observe them before signing up for a whole set of classes. Some people enjoy these activities so much they go on to compete or to become a dog trainer themselves.

Private training involves the dog trainer coming to your house for a lesson. In some cases, they may have an office that you go to instead or arrange to meet you in a public location such as a park.

Private lessons are best for behaviour problems, because the trainer comes to you and sees the dog in his or her usual environment. They will develop a plan for your dog, and will do some training whilst at your house and coach you in how to deal with the problem. In between times, expect to be given some homework.

With private training, you have time that is dedicated to you and your dog instead of having to share the trainer with others like in a class. Many trainers will also provide support by email or telephone in between sessions, and they will tell you what to expect.

If you attend a class but it turns out your dog has behaviour problems that are beyond the scope of the class, don’t be surprised if your trainer suggests private sessions instead (or as well). That’s because they can work with you more easily to resolve the problems that way.

If your dog has a behaviour problem, it’s generally better to try and do something to resolve the issues early on, instead of waiting for the problem to get worse before you seek help. This is especially important if you think your dog might bite someone (or indeed if your dog has already bitten someone). In these cases, make sure to ask how you can keep everyone safe until the appointment.  (For serious behaviour issues see below, what if my dog has a behaviour problem?).

What about board and train?

Another option is board and train, where your dog goes to stay with the dog trainer for a period of time, usually several weeks, and is trained while there. This can work well for some issues, such as house-training, but not so well for other issues.

This may also be useful if you are planning to go away and need somewhere to board your dog, and would like your dog to get some training as well.

Even though the trainer will be doing most of the training, you should still expect to have to do some work yourself; the trainer should keep in touch with you about your dog’s progress, and will schedule at least one session to ‘transfer’ the training.

After all, even if your pooch has learned lots of new commands, they won’t be much use if you don’t know what they are; and if you aren’t prepared to keep practising them, your dog may forget them.

Lindsay Helms (Shutterstock.com)

With board and train, you need to take even more care to select your dog trainer carefully and check references. Because they will be training the dog away from you, you won’t be able to see the training they do – so you need to be sure they really will be using food to train your dog, and not an aversive method such as a shock collar.

Vaccinations and Cleanliness

Expect to be asked to bring vaccination certificates to your first class. Adult dogs should have DHPP (distemper – parvo) and rabies vaccinations.

For puppies, the guidance from the American Veterinary Society for Animal Behaviour is that,

“In general, puppies can start puppy socialization classes as early as 7-8 weeks of age. Puppies should receive a minimum of one set of vaccines at least 7 days prior to the first class and a first deworming. They should be kept up-to-date on vaccines throughout the class”

Read their full position statement on puppy socialization for more information.

The premises where classes take place should be clean, and sanitized before each class. Carry your puppy from the car to the class.

Kindness and Courtesy in Dog Training

You want a dog trainer who will be professional and polite in their dealings with you. You also want a dog trainer who is a good teacher, because at least part of what they do will be teaching you how to train your dog.

Like I said above, dog training is actually quite a skilled activity and it doesn’t come naturally to everyone. So find a dog trainer who will be encouraging. Classes should be fun for you and your dog.

I hear stories of people who go to a dog trainer only to feel disheartened, discouraged and upset because the trainer told them their dog’s problems were due to them not being the alpha or not providing leadership. Don’t sign up with such a trainer. They are using out-dated dominance methods. And they are also showing they are not a good teacher (and sometimes being downright rude as well).

Courtesy works both ways. If your dog trainer asks you not to feed your dog before class, to bring treats to class, or to do some homework, do your best to comply. You will get more out of the training that way.

And if you find a dog trainer you like, you can always leave them a positive review. Your recommendation will help others in their search to find a good dog trainer. 

What if my dog has a behaviour problem?

If your dog has a behaviour problem, you still want to find someone who will use reward-based methods. For more information, see the American Veterinary Society for Animal Behaviour position statement on the use of punishment for behaviour modification in animals.

They say,

"AVSAB’s position is that punishment (e.g. choke chains, pinch collars, and electronic collars) should not be used as a first-line or early-use treatment for behavior problems. This is due to the potential adverse effects which include but are not limited to: inhibition of learning, increased fear-related and aggressive behaviors, and injury to animals and people interacting with animals."

Who should I hire if my dog has a behaviour problem?

While dog trainers can deal with many issues, there are some behaviour problems that need more expertise. Also, some dog trainers only take certain kinds of cases. For example, they might work with reactive dogs but not with fear and aggression cases.

Some dog trainers are able to work with dogs with certain behaviour problems, and will know if and when they need to refer you (e.g. to a veterinary behaviourist). Some dog trainers even specialize in certain kinds of behaviour problems, such as fear or separation anxiety.

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As mentioned above, make sure to check your dog trainer has qualifications. Dog trainers with the CTC from the Academy for Dog Trainers have studied behaviour modification as part of their course.

Animal behaviour consultants are certified by the International Association of Animal Behaviour Consultants. Certified members have a minimum of 500 hours experience in behaviour consulting and at least 400 hours of coursework in required areas, and must supply case studies and references (at the Associate Certified level, it is 300 hours of experience and 150 hours of coursework). IAABC follows LIMA. Members can be found via their online directory which is organized by species (dogs, cats, horses and parrots).

Certified applied animal behaviourists (CAABs) are certified by the Animal Behaviour Society. CAABs must have a doctoral degree in a relevant field, as well as experience of working with a particular species, and references. Associate Certified Applied Animal Behaviourists may have a Master’s degree. They can be found via the CAAB directory. Some CAABs are also veterinarians.

Veterinary behaviourists have a vet degree plus at least 3 years of further training in animal behaviour. As well, they must have published a research report, provide case studies and take a two day examination. The kind of problems they treat include aggression towards people and other animals and anxiety. The American College of Veterinary Behaviourists has a listing of board-certified veterinary behaviourists.

Some of these professionals are willing to take distant clients via Skype/telephone.

Why has my dog trainer asked me to see the vet first?

For some problems, your dog trainer will ask you to see your veterinarian first, to rule out any medical conditions that might be affecting your dog’s behaviour.

A typical example is for house-training issues. If a dog that was already house-trained suddenly starts to make a mess in the house, they need to see a vet in case it is caused by a medical issue. A urinary tract infection can cause dogs to have accidents in the house, for example, and no amount of training will take the place of antibiotics if they are needed. It’s only if your vet rules out medical issues that it would be appropriate to work with a dog trainer.

Any sudden changes in behaviour would also need a vet visit, because for example they could be a sign that your dog is in pain.

In some cases of fear and anxiety, your dog trainer might ask you to see your veterinarian in case they want to suggest medication. Dog trainers and pet behaviour counsellors are not able to prescribe medication (or even to recommend it), and so there are times when they will suggest you ask for an opinion from your veterinarian.

Only veterinarians can determine if your dog needs medication.

If, after seeing your vet, it’s decided that you do need to work with a dog trainer or behaviour counsellor, they will be willing to coordinate with your vet as necessary. For example, if your vet prescribes medication, this may have an effect on any training (e.g. if training should be delayed to allow the medication time to take effect, or if it should proceed at the same time). Your veterinarian will advise.

Prices and Packages 

Dog training classes are usually sold in a package, typically a set of six classes starting on a particular date.

For private dog training, most dog trainers will charge more for the first consultation. That’s because they are meeting with you to find out what the problem behaviour is and will devise a plan to resolve it. After the session, they will send you a report outlining the problem and what they propose should be done.

Future sessions, which involve carrying out that plan, typically cost less. Many trainers offer a package that includes the first session and then a set of follow-up sessions. This is usually cheaper than booking each session separately.

Although some dog trainers list their price on their website, others do not. Don’t be afraid to contact them and find out how much they charge.

Remember that, since you are choosing your dog trainer wisely, they have taken the time to educate themselves, gain experience, join a professional organization and stay up-to-date. You are paying for their expertise and so their rates should be set accordingly.

Having said that, since dog training is an unlicensed profession, some people charge a lot of money despite having no education. That’s why this article hopes to help you choose an excellent dog trainer.

Insurance

Your dog trainer should have insurance, and this information is usually included on their web page, but if in doubt, ask.

What if it all goes wrong?

Some people have the unfortunate experience of signing up with a dog trainer who they think will use positive reinforcement, and then when they turn up to class or the trainer is at their house, they find out that actually the dog trainer is recommending aversive techniques such as a shock or prong collar.

This post is designed to help you avoid that experience.

However, if it happens to you, remember that you are your dog’s advocate. Don’t let someone else treat your dog in a manner that you are not happy with. It may feel difficult or socially awkward to find yourself in this situation, but explain that this is not what you want for your dog.

Then find another trainer.

And finally…

If you’ve made it to the end of this article, you’re obviously a dedicated dog owner. I hope you can use this information to find a good dog trainer near you.

Remember, to choose a good dog trainer, look for:

• a dog trainer who will use food to train your dog;  
• who has an educational qualification in dog training (ideally the CTC or KPA CTP); 
• who is a member of a professional body; 
• and takes part in ongoing continuing education. 

If you see any of the warning signs I mentioned, keep on looking. The right dog trainer is out there, and your dog deserves nothing less.

If you found this article useful or would like to share some feedback with me, please feel free to send me an email. (companimalpsych at gmail dot com).

And if you’d like to learn more about how we can use science for a better relationship with our pets, why not subscribe to Companion Animal Psychology?


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