I don't wanna: The dislike of management in training.

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I don't wanna: The dislike of management in training.

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I have loads of amazing clients that do the work we discuss and put forth the effort to train their dogs using the advice and plans I give them.  However, depending on the case and specifics of the issues we are working on, this may possibly mean a huge shift in change for both the dog and owner.  This very often involves what we call "management", and this can often be met with some real crazy "whaaa?" faces and words.

Management is utilized a great deal in the beginning of a training program, especially when really changing behavior in dogs, because it sets the dog up to succeed.  It's like the alcoholic that's decided to stop drinking.  They cannot successfully do this by going to the bar, even if just once a week.  They have to manage themselves and set themselves up for success so that the long term result is the person no longer drinking.  This means attending AA meetings and getting rid of all alcohol in the home, not going to bars, etc.  It's a whole new system they have to adopt if they want to change.  There is no easy way around it.  Either they do these things and manage themselves tightly in the beginning (so hopefully when further into their program they can actually go to a bar with a friend and use self discipline) or they will fail. It's just that simple.

We must do the same with our dogs.  When we want to change their behavior we have to find ways to set them up for success while we are working toward the bigger goal or end goal.  If your dog is barking viciously out of the windows at home then gets out on a leash and is very reactive (or aggressive) toward other dogs then we need to change something.  Management here would include blocking the window (so not to practice and get amped up) and not walk the dog --for now-- so that he cannot practice these behaviors. This is not fixing the problem but it's putting forth a management protocol that will aid in the success of all the other training we will be doing to help in the long run.

While most people clearly can see the situation with the alcoholic and respect it, they cannot seem to do this with their dogs when it comes down to it.  I find a lot of resistance to management protocols with dogs.  As humans we seemingly so often just find that dogs are here to do what we say when we say it and if they can't we'll force them into the scenario to make them understand what's wrong and why.

Fido lunges on a leash? Well by golly then I'll slap this correction collar on him and yank it really hard when he does that! He'll learn not to do that again! ... Hmmm ... Is that really setting the dog up to succeed? Is this actually teaching the dog what he should be doing instead of lunging on the leash?

puppy in a safe area: management!

Management is just as important in a training program as the actual training and changing of behavior.  It is part of the protocol.  If one doesn't manage and set their dog up for success the dog will not succeed in the way that it should.  Trainers don't give you the rules to stop doing certain things with your dog or to change the current way you might be doing something so that they can really disrupt your life.  They do it to help you and your dog for the goal you have in mind.

This could be as simple as putting a puppy in a crate so that he cannot chew your things while you're out to quitting your daily walks if your dog is reactive on a leash.  Neither are a life sentence, but a management protocol that can be eventually totally changed to something different.

So just remember, setting your dog up for success and managing your dog isn't a failure, it's a step in the right direction.  I have a client right now that's doing an amazing job with her very leash reactive dog.  We are to the point where I've suggested she can now start short walks.  She knows what to do and how to help the dog when she sees other dogs.  So she says to me, "I feel like I really chickened out the other day walking Fluffy.  I saw another dog and I wasn't ready so I jumped behind the closest car and hid there with Fluffy until the dog was gone. I know I should have worked on her and done something else."  I said, "Are you kidding?!  That's great!  If you knew you weren't mentally ready to handle that then you did the right thing. You set her up for success. She was not able to see the dog to react and you stuck it out until it was safe and she wasn't put in a position to react!  I call that a success and good thinking!"

Don't ever feel like you're failing if you set your dog up to succeed, even if in that moment it's not actually "training".  If your dog is put in a position to make a good choice, or at least not make a bad one, then you're winning! 

Happy training ... and keep on working with your dog to set her up to succeed!

Stacy Greer

Sunshine Dog Training & Behavior, LLC

sunshinedog.com

Crate Training Truths & Tips.

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Crate Training Truths & Tips.

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Crate training is often as hot a topic as politics!  So keep in mind that I'm just one professional trainer in an industry of many across the globe ... but I love, love, love crate training.  I think everyone should do it, regardless of breed or age of the dog being crate trained.

Oh and before I get started, don't forget to read my previous blog post, "Potty Talk" on potty training Do's, Don'ts and How-To's.

The truth is that it's all about the approach, training and use of the crate.  Let me start with the benefits of the use of a crate and then we can do the things to be aware of that could lead to problems. You are your dog's person; only you can decide if this is what you think is best for you and your dog. However, I'll tell you that crates are awesomesauce.

Before I get into the benefits and details of crate training, let me touch on some dogs that may not be able to be crated.  Dogs that have Separation Anxiety (SA) cannot be crated, at least not in the beginning. After a protocol from a pro in treating SA, they usually can be but usually not at first.  SA is very often mis-labeled and mis-diagnosed, and even mis-treated with the wrong protocols, so be sure to read up on it via this website, the SA authority: malenaprice.com. If you suspect SA in your dog please, please contact someone from Malena Price's website ASAP. 

BENEFITS TO CRATE TRAINING.

1) Potty training.

If your puppy is learning the ins and outs of potty training this will be, hands down, the fastest way to accomplish this quickly and successfully.  This even applies to adult dogs that need to be house trained.

The crate is a tool that helps the dog learn to "hold it" so that it will only go potty where it should when taken out of the crate. (See my blog post on potty training.)

When done correctly, crate training let's the dog understand that his crate is his home, a place to keep clean and relax in.  It is not a potty area.

2) Boundaries & safety.

Every dog needs boundaries, just like children.  A crate is a safe, secure and comfy place for your puppy or dog to learn this.  For puppies that are into everything this is a tool that prevents them from running around and getting into trouble, chewing things when they shouldn't and the like.  Same with curious dogs too, even if they aren't puppies.

If supervision isn't able to be accomplished due to busy schedules or someone being out of the home, then a crated dog is a safe dog.  They cannot get into trouble or mischief if they are crated.

3) Place to relax & decompress.

All dogs need a place to relax, get away & decompress.  Just because they are dogs and our pets doesn't mean they don't want some alone time every now and again.  

This is especially vital with puppies as they are growing and developing they need a lot of "down time" to decompress as they can become overstimulated quickly.  Even some adult dogs can become overstimulated and need a place to decompress.  

Got kids, toddlers and/or babies in the home or coming into the home? Then this is definitely a must for when things get a little hectic and you need to allow Fido to go decompress and relax, alone.

4) Dog is ill/injured.

If your dog is ever ill or injured a properly crate trained dog will benefit hugely from being crated during this time.  Some dogs require long periods of rest, like dogs undergoing heartworm treatment or nursing a broken leg.  This could mean several weeks of crate rest.  A crate is a wonderful tool to use because it's comfy and safe for the dog to be in so that they can heal properly.

5) Holidays/parties.

This actually goes along with #3 but I like to make it a separate category.  There are many holidays throughout the year that are more chaotic than others -- New Year's, Fourth of July (for USA), Halloween, Thanksgiving and Christmas.  During holidays and/or parties usually there are either lots of noises and chaos outside or in the home with guests moving about and coming and going.  

These times are critical times for dogs to have a place go to relax, be alone, be comfortable and be away from the chaos.  There are also several specific protocols for these holidays to ensure your dog is not anxious and can remain cool and collected while resting in her crate in a safe area of the home.

6) Travel & staying away from home.

Traveling, especially if going on a long distance trip, is safest for your dog if he's in a secure crate.  Also, if visiting somewhere such as a dog-friendly hotel or even another person's home, it is beneficial (and polite) if your dog is able to be crated in another room of someone's home or quietly in a dog-friendly hotel room.

7) Behavior modification, foster dogs & new dog introductions.

Behavior Modification -- Crates are hugely beneficial during behavior modification programs when dogs need to be separated, when dogs should be rotated (one out, one in) and for other reasons that would be laid out in specific training protocols on a case by case basis.

Foster Dogs -- If you foster dogs it's a must to have a crate for the foster dog.  They should always have time to decompress and stay in a place that's quiet and safe away from the rest of your other dogs and other family members.  There is an entire protocol for this and you should contact me if you need information and details.  However, foster dogs shouldn't be brought in and just tossed into your mix of things.  

New Dogs to the home -- If you are adding a new puppy or dog to your home with an existing dog (or dogs) it is vital to have a crate for the new dog (hopefully your current dog[s] are crate trained as well) to retreat to, stay in during the introductory period.  Again, an entire protocol is laid out when this applies to your home so I won't go into details.  If this applies to your home please contact me to get a protocol in place before adding the new dog.

THINGS TO BE AWARE OF.

As you can see the benefits of crate training are many.  However, there are some things that could happen, albeit usually totally avoidable, and some more on the doubtful or rarely an issue side of things.  I'm still going to list them all because they are a possibility if you aren't aware.  

1) Entanglement.

Some dogs can become entangled, when wearing a collar, in a wire crate. Worst case scenario is a dog strangles themselves this way. This is totally avoidable by taking off your dog's collar each time you put your dog in a crate.

2) Trapped in a housefire.

Obviously this isn't going to be something you could predict but also this isn't going to be a common occurrence, if ever.  But it could happen.  For this to be avoided, always have a plan in the event that you have a house fire while you are not home.  In this instance [having a plan], crating your dog can actually be beneficial if done properly. Have the plan written down and given to neighbors.  Here is a great resource for how to lay out a plan for your dog in the event of a house fire.

3) Incorrect size/use.

If you have a crate that is too small or too large they could both be a hindrance.  When potty training a crate should be the perfect size (more later on this) and not too big.  For dogs confined for longer periods you may want one a tad larger so they can stretch out as much as possible for comfy naps. 

Misuse is also something you should avoid.  This would include a dog being crated for more than 8-10 hours at a time, on a consistent basis, without a break.  I know many people work full days, in this case it is important that you try to hire a dog walker to come in at least once a day to let your dog out for a bit to potty and get some exercise or engagement of some kind.  Sometimes neighborhood teens or some other resource can do this for really cheap (or free) if a dog walker isn't in the budget.

CORRECT SIZES & TYPES OF CRATES.

Crate sizes.

Having the correct size of crate for your dog is very important, especially since it can differ depending on what it's used for.  For example, when putting a puppy in one for crate training purposes I often see people getting far too large of crates for the puppy which leaves room for puppy to have accidents inside the crate and create a habit of going potty inside a crate, totally opposite of what you want to use a crate for.  

So, for potty training purposes the crate should fit the dog just right.  For large breed dogs you could get a large crate and they often come with dividers (usually only the wire crates do) so that you can section off the crate and let it "grow" with your puppy.  If you have a plastic crate then dividers are more difficult to use in them.  So this is when you want to get the correct size of crate.  Measure your puppy from head to tail base (not end of tail) and add 3-5 inches.  That's the length of crate you need.  You will need to watch your puppy grow and adjust the crate size accordingly, which means purchasing a new one when the time is right.

If your dog is reliably holding it while in the crate then you could get a crate that is a tad bigger than the potty training crate size as recommended above.  This just allows your dog to stretch out more.  It's also good to note that some dogs like being curled up in a small space so this may or may not make a difference to your dog.  So just make a judgment call on that.

Which brings us to which type of crate to use.  You should know this is a complete personal choice. There isn't one type of crate that is really better for crate training than another.  There are 3 main types -- wire, plastic and soft.  The soft crate shouldn't be used until your dog is fully crate trained and is happy and safe in a crate.  They can be torn through and eaten through in a jiff!  So that should be out unless you're past the stage of training.  That leaves the wire crate and the plastic, airline crates. 

Wire crates.

Wire crates are airy, dogs can see out on all sides and they are really easy to tote around. They fold flat when broken down and can fit into a trunk or back of a vehicle easily.  They come with dividers that make it easy to section off the right size while potty training your growing puppy.  The crate pan is replaceable and it's easy to attach water buckets or bowls to the inside of it.  It's not super easy to clean out and sanitize, in comparison to the plastic crate.

Plastic/Airline crates.

Plastic crates are thicker, less noisy (when dogs move around) and if a dog has an accident it will hold the accident instead of allow it to seep out of the sides.  They don't break down as easily as wire crates and aren't as easy to fit in places.  They can be sturdier than wire crates for dogs that are strong, unless you get larger gauge wire on the wire crates (special order).  They don't come with a divider so if you have a puppy you'll need to buy several to accommodate the puppy as it grows. It's easy to clean out and sanitize, compared to the all wire crates.

HOW TO GET YOUR DOG USED TO THE CRATE.

The best way to get your dog to love her crate is to get Susan Garrett's DVD, Crate Games and watch and follow it.  Yeah I know you wanted me to list specific stuff here but honestly this DVD is a game changer. It's superb. You need to get it. Actually even if your dog is already crate trained you should get this DVD and watch it, and follow it. 

Helpful tips.

1) Don't use the crate only for absences.

This is the single most important thing you can do.  Dogs need to know that being in a crate is a safe place and not only used when you are away.  This helps set your dog up to be quiet and secure when you need to utilize it for some of the benefits listed at the beginning of this blog post.

2) Feed your dog all meals in the crate.  

Feeding your dog in the crate will help your dog make good associations with the crate.  It can also help with puppies who often get too distracted to finish their meals and wander off after just taking a few bites.

3) Invest in a cover.

Some dogs do much better if the crate is covered. They make crate covers that fit crates perfectly or you can use an old blanket or sheet.  Some dogs don't care for the cover but for many it's a great way to help them quiet and/or feel secure and safe.

4) Take it slow.

Don't rush crate training, especially if it's totally new to you and the puppy or dog. While working on the crate training you can utilize a Safe Area that is a large x-pen with a crate (door open) with a bed, grass potty patch, toys and water. 

5) Don't be afraid to use it.

People so often read so much on the don'ts of crate training, including not to over-use it.  I find this scares people a lot and the end up under-using it, especially with puppies.  When a puppy or dog cannot be supervised it should be crated.  If a puppy is over-stimulated, it should be crated. If a dog is not trusted free in the home, it should be crated. 

Step-by-step guide to crate training.

My favorite article on steps to positively crate train your dog are written by of of my faves, Casey Lomonaco.  You can find her article on clickertraining.com here, under the title "Keeping the Holiday Peace".  It's a crate training piece, not geared to discuss holidays.

GETTING OUT OF THE CRATE STAGE
The biggest question I get from dog owners [about crates] is -- When can my dog not use the crate anymore?  The answer is -- it depends on your dog.  Each dog is different, and some are trustworthy early on (I've known some as early as 9 months of age) while others aren't trustworthy until they are well into adulthood (I've known some as late as 2+ years).

The best way to gauge it is to test it by leaving your dog un-crated for a very short period -- say 10 minutes -- and come back and check things out.  Was there any destruction, any potty accidents, any signs of stress?  Even if just one magazine was ripped up then I'd back up and use the crate a bit longer.  For some crating might be for life and for some crating is just safer and a way for the dog to feel more secure, forever.  It's just going to depend on each individual dog.

Stacy Greer

Sunshine Dog Training & Behavior, LLC

sunshinedog.com

When to Start Teaching Puppy Commands: The Puppy Training Plan

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When to Start Teaching Puppy Commands: The Puppy Training Plan

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When Should You Start Teaching Your Puppy Obedience Commands?

Wait Until Eight Weeks or Older to Bring Your Puppy Home

Some of the most important lessons your puppy will learn are taught to them by their litter mates during their seventh week of life.  They are learning important social skills, including bite inhibition, dominance and submission as well as social rank. Litter mates will quickly let each other know when they are taking things too far or playing too roughly. Soft tempered puppies learn coping skills for dealing with dominant dogs. This can be a life saving skill for a puppy entering a home with an established, dominant dog already in residence. Only after they are 8 weeks old, are ready to leave the den and begin a new journey of bonding and learning the manners that will make them your indispensible, faithful companions.

Your First Day Home With Your Puppy
Prior to bringing your puppy home, your breeder will probably have already begun teaching them some basic commands, such as "here" or "come" at feeding time in addition to the ubiquitous "No!" As soon as you bring your puppy home, he is ready to begin learning basic obedience commands, but wait until day two to start your basic obedience training. Being on his or her own for the first time is an overwhelming life change. Give your puppy time to explore his new surroundings and time to rest from the mental and emotional challenges of the first day.

Keep in mind that for very young puppies, eight weeks to six months, there will be a special training schedule (which we discuss below) that you should adhere to when you start to teach your puppy new commands.

Border Collie Puppy Learning the Down Command

Your Puppy's First Night Home - Time to Start Crate Training

We highly recommend crate training your puppy, and the first evening home is the best time to begin. Crate training not only protects your valuables when you are unable to pay attention to the puppy's activities, it also provides a safe harbor for your companion once he is acclimated to the crate.

Additionally, many competitive obedience trainers crate their dogs for 20-30 minutes following each training session. This gives the puppy or dog a chance to think about and review the lessons of the day. These timeouts to reflect on the day's lesson greatly accelerate the training process. (to learn more about quick and painless crate training click here.)

How To Begin Teaching Basic Commands to Young Puppies

These simple rules, consistently applied, will have your puppy well trained with minimal time invested. Overdoing the training, by working him more than two sessions a day, can create nervousness in puppies. One session a day is enough to quickly progress through the training schedule. Keep in mind, they are babies, and the training should always be fun. Take care to stop before the dog becomes bored, and you become frustrated.

• Set aside 10-15 minutes a day for training every day.
• New skills should be taught in a quiet place with few to no distractions.
• Be consistent in your commands and markers (clicker or word markers such as "yes" or "good" are used to mark the correct behavior as soon as it is offered by the puppy).
• Use soft, bite-sized treats for rewards. Large, hard to chew treats distract the puppy and slow down the lesson.
• Once your puppy has acquired several skills, mix them up within the new skills training to prevent boredom, reinforce previous lessons and allow the puppy to feel successful throughout each training session.
• Always end on a positive note where the dog has performed a new or older command correctly.
• Celebrate the end of the lesson with a phrase like "Free Dog," and play for a few minutes - tug or retrieve.
• Give your puppy 10-15 minutes crate time to think about the lesson immediately after training followed by playtime.

Puppy Teething Phase and Training

At approximately 13 weeks of age, your puppy will begin cutting its adult teeth.  During this phase your puppy may become restless and irritable; gums will be inflamed and the puppy may at time be feverish. If it seems your puppy has turned into a gremlin, don't lose hope!  

Keep in mind that teething time is not a good time to work on any advanced training lessons.  Both you and your puppy are likely to become frustrated. To learn more about soothing your puppy's teething phase click here.

Use this time to reinforce the lessons you have already learned, and to begin lots of socialization exercises. Take your puppy with you on outings whenever possible.  Headed to Home Depot? Their landscape department is pet friendly, and so are many of the customers. Puppy manners classes are a good idea at this time for socializing with other young dog breeds.

Consider Enrolling in the AKC S.T.A.R. Puppy Program

You may want to enroll your puppy in the new AKC S.T.A.R. (Socialization, Training, Activity, Responsibility) puppy training program. This is a certification that lays the groundwork for the AKC CGC title (Canine Good Citizen). 

Owners learn their responsibilities, as well as recommend exercise levels and activities for their breed. Puppies learn to be handled by strangers, groomed, walked calmly on lead in a straight line as well as with other puppies as distractions.  Puppies are socialized and tested and even learnt to give up their favorite toy on command.

The S.T.A.R. Program as well as the CGC certification can be especially important for breeds that have reputations as being aggressive or bully breeds.  Pit bull owners as well as owners of breeds like the Rottweiler may find that this certification can allay some of their new acquaintances fears of their breed, and in the case of a bite incident (whether accidental or provoked) these certifications may prove useful in dog court. You will be recognized as a responsible dog owner, and your dog will have demonstrated good canine socialization skills.

Keep in mind with your new puppy, that you will only get out of your puppy what you put into him. Training that allows your puppy to know his boundaries will make for a long life of companionship and unconditional love!

Skimlinks Test

The Essentials For Teething Retrievers 5 Best Puppy Toys for Labs

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The Essentials For Teething Retrievers 5 Best Puppy Toys for Labs

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America's favorite dog breed is also one of America's toughest power chewers.  These five toys have been tested for durability, interest and safety.  Several of these toys float, making them ideal for retrieval training, as well as all round chew toys. Your Labrador Retriever puppy is guaranteed to love these toys for a long time to come!

The GoughNuts Stick is Guaranteed for Life

The GoughNuts Guaranteed Indestructible Dog Chew Toys

Designed with maximum safety in mind, the GoughNuts Dog Toys are made from premium rubber that is not as plastic tasting as some of the competitor's toys.  The Original Toy comes in green with a red center. Their slogan is, "Green means Go! Red means Stop!" If your dog reaches the red center, it is time to take it away from him and send it in for a replacement.  You pay shipping and a small handling fee for the replacement.

Here Black means Go, and Red means Stop!

Lab owners rave about the durability of these toys.  To maximize your value and the longevity of the toy, go for the Goughnut Maxx 50 Ring. This toy has the strongest rubber of any chew toy on the market, and is available in both the stick and doughnut shaped designs.

Advantages:

• Made in the USA
• Floats in water; ideal for water loving Labrador Retrievers
• Guaranteed Indestructible. GoughNuts will replace your toy for free when it reaches the red inner core.

Doughnut Shaped GoughNuts Three Sizes:

• .75 Ring is offered in Green, Black, and Yellow - 3.75 inches in diameter and 1.3 inches cross section.
• Original GoughNut Ring in Green, Black, Pro 50, Yellow & Orange - 5 inches diameter, 1.75 inches CS
• MaXX Ring in Black, Pro 50 (distinguished with a yellow marking) - 6.25 Inches diameter, 2.1 inches CS

Stick Shaped Goughnuts in 3 Sizes

• .75 Med Sticks in Green, Black, Orange & Yellow - Length 6.5 inches, Cross section 1.3 inches (for 10 to 25 pound dogs or used as a quick reward for larger dogs).

• Large Stick in Green, Black, Pro 50, Orange & Yellow - Length 9.0 inches, Cross section 1.75 inches (Ideal for medium and large - 30-60 pound - dogs for play and moderate chewing).
• MaXX Stick in Black & Pro 50 - Length 11.5 inches, Cross section 2.1" (Large dogs for play and moderate to heavy chewing).

Recommendation:

To maximize the lifespan of the toy for your lab, purchase either the Black Pro 50 or MaXX for extremely heavy chewers.

Best All Natural Chew for Labs: Antos Origins Natural Root Chews

All Natural Root Dog Chews are sourced in Spain

These long lasting root chews satisfy your lab puppies desire to chew on sticks, but are guaranteed not to splinter or cause digestive upset.  They look and feel like very dense cork. Our "Sprout" size root chew lasted for 4 weeks with 7 growing puppies! That's better than any antler chew has lasted, and it won't break teeth.

The Himalayan Chews come in a variety of sizes. We recommend the Sprout size (3x4x4 inches) for Lab puppies and the Stump size for adult Labrador Retrievers ((5x5x6 inches).  The irregular shape allows puppies to always find an angle to chew on the treat no matter what size it start out at.

Advantages:

• All natural
• Sourced in Spain
• Will not splinter or break teeth
• Natural toothbrush
• Durable and long lasting
• High interest for all dog breeds

Recommendation:

• Antos Origins Natural Root Dog Chew Toy - Small for teething Lab puppies
• Antos Origins Natural Root Dog Chew Toy - Extra Large for adult Labrador Retreivers

Nylabone Teething Keys: Best Puppy Teething Toy - For Puppy Teeth Only

We can't explain the intense interest puppies have in these teething keys, other than the fact that they really do smell like bacon.  The introduction of these toys in the puppy pen caused a minor riot. Puppies were snatching them and guarding the toys from each other.  If you have more than one puppy, get enough to go around with a few spares!

Advantages:

• Made in the USA
• High Interest
• Encourages nondestructive chewing habits while satisfying the natural urge to chew
• Softer material designed for teething puppies
• Bristles raised during chewing help clean teeth and prevent tartar buildup
• Different textures massage gums and teeth for better oral health

Warning: These are designed specifically for puppy teeth. Remove these toys from puppies once the adult molars erupt. Not recommend in households with adult dogs present.

Recommendation: Purchase the medium or large size Nylabone Just For Puppies Medium Key Ring Bone Puppy Dog Teething Chew Toy for Lab puppies.

The Toughest Retrieving Toy - The Tuffy Ultimate Series of Dog Toys

Start your Lab puppy's retrieving skills with this durable ring toss toy from Tuffy.

How can this dog toy be so tough that it has lasted for years, when other indestructible dog toys made from fire hose material have failed within 30 minutes? The construction of these toys is, in fact, quite a feat of engineering:

Each toy is made with four layers. The first two layers are made of industrial grade luggage material, 1 layer of plastic coating, and the outer layer is made of soft fleece on the outside. All of these layers are sewn together to make one super strong layer of material. 

Each toy is sewn together with 2 layers of quilted cross stitching and then 2 layers of linear stitching. After the toy is sewn together an additional piece of black trim is added to cover the four rows of stitching. This extra piece of black trim is sewn with 3 linear stitches to give the product a total of 7 seams.   

Advantages:

• Great for teaching puppies to retrieve: roll it on the ground, sail it as a Frisbee or use it as a tug toy.
• It Floats!
• Incredibly durable
• Machine washable, air dry
• Comes in a wide Variety of colors, shapes and sizes

At 20" Tall, the Tuffy T-Rex Toy can stand in as a companion for your lab puppy!

Recommendation:  We recommend the Tuffy Ultimates Ring Dog Toy, Red Paws to start.  It floats, making it a great starter tool for retrieval training and beginning Frisbee training.  its soft edges won't damage teeth and gums.

Best Toy For Soothing Irritated Teething Gums: Chilly Bones

This durable toy stays frozen for a long time and cools burning gums during the teething phase.

This delightful toy is made with non-toxic, quick freezing gel covered with durable canvas.  It has a slight vanilla scent, that seems to be appealing to most puppies.  The toy should stay cold for over an hour depending on ambient room conditions.

The cold gel chills out red inflamed gums as puppies are cutting new teeth. Just rinse and return to freezer to chilly it out again. We recommend that you get two so you can have one chilling out while the other is in use.  

Advantages:

• Great for teething puppies or chilling out adult dogs during the dog days of summer
• Promotes healthy teeth and gums
• Simply hand wash and return to freezer
• Inexpensive
• Comes in two sizes

Recommendation: Purchase the Large size for Lab Puppies.

Bonus Recommendation: The Ultimate Retriever Training Kit

Retriever training kit for teaching duck retrieval
Coastal Pet Duck Training Kit

If you want to get your young retriever off to a good start and teach a soft mouth for retrieving fowl, Remington makes a complete kit for teaching dogs to retrieve both ducks and pheasants. The kit includes a retrieving dummy, scent for either ducks or pheasants, a 25 foot lead, so you don't lose your dog during training, and a whistle with lanyard for teaching commands.

This is an ideal gift for the new bird dog owner. It can be used for both serious gun dog training or just for a fun game of fetch.  The long lead is recommended for any serious long stay training, as it still gives you control over the dog, if he breaks his stay as you walk away from him.

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Crate Training Made Easy As 1-2-3

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Crate Training Made Easy As 1-2-3

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Luna's puppies emerging from their den

Crate training, when properly done, provides owners with peace of mind during those times when they cannot monitor the activities of their new puppy or dog. 

Dogs Love Their Dens and Crates

Dogs are essentially den animals by nature, meaning they instinctively enjoy being in dark close quarters.  In the wild, expectant mothers dig dens in order to whelp and raise their new puppies.  In fact, our border collie regularly digs dens or re-excavates old dens in accordance with her seasons to prepare for her coming or imaginary litters. 

These dens are relatively spacious, and will protect the puppies from the elements such as summer heat, winter snow and rain. Their den maintains a relatively constant temperature, as it is typically one foot underground.  Here the puppies will stay until they begin to walk and venture out short distances from the den, returning to the den to sleep and nurse.  With proper introduction to his new crate, your dog’s natural instincts will cause him or her to seek out his crate for nap time or as a safe haven in times of stress.

Step 1 - Selecting the Proper Crate

There are 3 basic types of crates on the market: the soft-sided crate, the wire mesh cage and the plastic hard-sided crate.  Save the soft-sided crate for later, at a time when the dog is properly crate trained and has learned to seek comfort in a crate.  Soft crates are easily destroyed, causing unnecessary expense to the owner, and teaching the dog that if they try hard enough, they will eventually be able to set themselves free. 

The soft crate is only appropriate for dogs who are already crate trained and comfortable in their private den area.  However, they are great for travel and indoor containment of the well mannered dog, as they offer den-like privacy via their mesh windows and adjustable fabric flaps.

The plastic or sheet metal sided crates are an excellent option for the adult dog.  They offer den-like privacy and are the only crates rated for air travel.  On the down side, plastic crates are not easy to disassemble and reassemble, which is not a problem for small dog crates, but becomes an issue when moving large dog crates within the home or on a trip from car to hotel room.   More importantly, they cannot be safely reconfigured to adapt for growing puppies.

3 door wire crate with divider

This leaves the collapsible wire mesh crate with a movable divider as the preferred training crate for growing dogs as well as for travel with large dogs.  You will want to purchase a crate that will accommodate your puppy when fully grown, and that also includes a divider which you can use to limit his sleeping area.

When fitting his sleeping area, the sleeping space should allow for comfortable rest but should not be so large that it provides him with enough space for him stake out two areas: one for sleeping and one for eliminating. A puppy that gets into the habit of soiling his crate will be very difficult to house break. 

The privacy-den effect can be added to the wire crate by draping the crate with a sheet or towel.

Step 2 - Teaching Kennel-Up! 

• On day one, it’s a good idea to start by teaching your dog to enter his crate on command.  You can begin by saying, “kennel-up”, “go to your crate,” “get in” or any phrase of your choosing, and then tossing a treat into the crate.  Your dog will quickly find going into the crate is a rewarding exercise.  
• Initially leave the cage door open to let him come and go as he pleases.  
• Repeat the training session several times during the first few days with 4-5 “kennel-ups” or “go-in’s” per session. 
•  If you plan on using clicker training, you will want to click the clicker when the dog enters the crate to retrieve his reward.  
• Once he begins to enter the crate on command, switch to treating him after he has entered the crate on his own.  
• As his understanding of the command solidifies, you can begin to reward him intermittently.

Step 3 - Feed His Meals in the Crate

• Give the command to “kennel-up,” and once the dog has entered the crate, give him his food, and shut the crate door.  
• For young puppies, you will want to take them out for a potty break within 30-45 minutes after the puppy has finished his meal.  
• If you have multiple dogs, crate feeding is a good way to prevent rapid eaters from muscling-out the slower eaters from their food bowls.

Bedtime: If possible, we recommend bringing the crate to your bedroom for bedtime to keep an eye on him and provide some extra comfort in his new surroundings. As the dog becomes more comfortable in his crate, you may choose to crate him in the evenings in another area of the house.  You can include a chew toy in the crate to entertain him until he exhausts; we recommend selecting one without a squeaker.   

Be prepared, you may have a night or two of your dog or puppy “crying” himself to sleep.  Be careful not to let the dog out of his crate while he is barking or misbehaving.  Only let him out when he is behaving himself, unless you suspect he is about to have a potty accident.  

You can recognize a puppy or dog that is in need of a potty break, if you see him turning in circles and looking at the bottom of the crate.  In that instance carry him outside for a potty (literally if this is a young puppy), praise him for the potty, give him a short walk as a reward and then return him to the crate for the evening.  

Remember to give him a small reward for kenneling-up at bedtime as well.  In the morning, be careful to get your dog to his potty area immediately after leaving his kennel.  With young puppies, carry them outside to avoid unintended accidents on the way to the door.

A Word of Caution On Puppy Crating Durations

While sleeping in the evenings, the dog’s digestive system slows down considerably, allowing him to remain crated for an 8 hour stretch.  During the daytime, dogs should be crated a maximum of 4 to 5 hours at a time.  It is important that during their crate time they have access to water; a stainless steel pail hooked to the side of the crate or crate door works best. 

Young puppies require more frequent potty breaks than adults.  Puppy ages and their relative maximum crating times are:

8-10 weeks 30-60 minutes

11-14 weeks 1-3 hours

15-16 weeks 3-4 hours

17+ weeks 4-5 hours

By Taro the Shiba Inu (@_tar0_ scores a goal!
[CC-BY-2.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0)],
via Wikimedia Commons

If you are on a working schedule that prevents you from coming home to give your dog regular potty breaks, you will want to create an indoor pen area or hire a professional dog walker.  

When creating an indoor pen, select a site with an easy to clean floor and provide puppy potty training pads, so that he has an appropriate area to eliminate on.  Most puppy training pads come with a scent to encourage elimination on them and not other areas of the pen. 

Before leaving for work and penning or crating your puppy or dog, be sure to give him at least 30 to 60 minutes of exercise depending on his size and age. Make sure to release him as soon as you return.  Your arrival will trigger excitement and speed up his digestive system.

When you are home and enjoying time with your new puppy or dog, leave the door to the crate open, and you will soon find that he looks forward to relaxing in his own private area.  If you are planning on a task that you expect your dog to find unpleasant, such as a bath, close the door to the crate before he realizes your intentions, so that he cannot hide in it.  You want to avoid turning his safe haven into a battle ground with you trying to drag him out of his den.

You can use these same techniques to introduce your dog to his new dog house.  While we do not advocate leaving dogs outside 24x7, dog houses do provide shelter from the elements when a sudden storm comes up and provides a cool refuge on a hot summer day.

Visit 4 Best Dog Houses to learn more about what the best dog houses have to offer.

How To Finding the Right Dog Breed and Breeder for Your Family

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How To Finding the Right Dog Breed and Breeder for Your Family

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Pure bred dogs offer puppy seekers the opportunity to match their family’s needs with the traits and temperament characteristics of the dog that may best suit their home environment.  Each dog breed was bred to perform a specific set of tasks. For that reason, each breed’s body structure, instincts and temperament have been molded over generations, in many instances centuries, through selective breeding, to develop the breed’s type.  

While there are no guarantees on temperaments, pure bred dogs offer prospective owners a good idea of what their puppy will grow up to look like, what is energy level is likely to be, as well as its inherent instincts, tendencies and general personality characteristics.

Where To Find Your Dog Breed and Leads on Breeders

If you are still choosing between several dog breeds or have already set your sights on a particular breed, a good starting place is a dog show.  Most AKC breeds will be represented there, and in many instances breeders will be ringside as well.  This is an opportunity for you to meet a number of specimens of each breed under high stress circumstances.  You’ll get a good sense of which breeds are laid-back or high strung, and you’ll learn pretty much the same thing about the breeders as well.  InfoDog.com has a listing of most of the AKC events occurring around the country, including conformation shows, rally, herding, obedience and agility trials.  Click on this link, and you will find a map of the USA.  Click on your state and a list of all upcoming AKC events will be displayed.  The AKC website has a similar list, but I find this one is the easiest to navigate.

If you are interested in training in performance events, such as agility, herding, flyball or disc dog, you may prefer to visit a trial to see which breeds are the most successful. There you can meet the dog handlers, who can then point you to breeders who are respected in that particular performance venue.

As you narrow your focus, you can gain more in depth information about the breed from the AKC Breed Parent Club.  AKC.org offers links to each of the parent clubs, which act as the stewards of their respective breeds.  The parent clubs work in conjunction with the AKC to support breed specific health research, rescue programs and maintenance of the breed standard.  They also offer breeder referral listings with links to member breeder’s websites.

What to look for in a Breeder

As you peruse the breeders’ websites, you will want to see that the breeder is actively working with their dogs in the canine community.  You should see evidence, through titles, of successful competition in either conformation, therapy or performance venues.  These titles help to assure you that the breeder is producing dogs that are judged to be fit to do the work the breed was designed to do.  Titles also tell you that the breeder is actively working with his or her dogs to train and socialize them. 

You will want to see health clearances listed for the breeding stock on their website. OFA scores for hip and elbow clearances are universally expected.  Your chosen breed is likely to have some breed specific issues that require DNA testing or routine examination.  The parent club’s website will have alerted you to the health screenings that should properly be performed for their breed prior to breeding.

Sample AKC Breeder of Merit Banner

The AKC recently added a new designation for breeders called the Breeder of Merit Program.  Breeders of Merit must have attained at least four AKC titles on their dog’s progeny, have been participating in AKC events a minimum of 5 years, must perform all applicable health testing required for their breed and must agree to achieve 100% AKC registrations for their litters.  As an AKC Breeder of Merit, I fulfill the final requirement by including AKC registration in my puppy’s purchase agreement.  Breeders of Merit will display the AKC breed specific Breeder of Merit Banner on their websites.  The AKC also maintains a list of their current Breeders of Merit which you can view by clicking here.

Red Flags For Puppy Mills and Questionable Breeders

Red flags include websites that display one or two dogs of each breed with 4 or more different breeds being produced.  You want to see depth in the breeding program regarding the progeny the breeder has produced.  One or two dogs per breed and multiple breeds, suggests a breeding farm or puppy mill.  You can also Google your prospective breeders.  Disappointed puppy buyers can be very vocal regarding poor treatment they have received as well as health issues that have developed in their puppies.

Puppies need to be with their litter mates for important socialization lessons until they are 8 weeks of age.  A breeder that is willing to let the puppies go any earlier than eight weeks should be avoided.  Furthermore, there is a growing trend to spay and neuter puppies between 2 and 6 weeks of age.  This is an abhorrent idea; puppies need the hormones from their reproductive organs in order to properly develop.  Puppies should not be altered prior to 6 months of age, so walk away from any breeder suggesting or advertising otherwise.

How to Start the Conversation With A Breeder

Once you have selected the breeder or breeders that interest you, you will want to contact them via email.  In your introductory email, you should tell the breeder a little bit about yourself. They will want to know what experience you have had, if any, with their breed, details on your home environment including children, fenced yard etc… and whether you are seeking a pet companion, performance dog or show dog.  As your communications progress, you can request a copy of their sales contract.  Breeders typically have 2 or more contracts depending on whether the puppy is being purchased as a pet or show/breeding prospect.

The reputable breeder’s contract should offer a health guarantee that the puppy be free from genetic defects up to the age of 1 year old.  Typically, if a health issue should arise, the breeder will offer to replace the puppy with one from a new breeding.  Prior to replacing the puppy, the breeder will need to see documentation from a veterinarian that the health condition exists.  I have yet to see a contract that offered a money-back guarantee, so you should not expect to see that in a puppy contract.  Some breeders will demand that the genetically impaired dog be returned prior to the buyer receiving the replacement puppy.  I believe this requirement is designed to discourage puppy buyers from invoking the guarantee.  The reputable breeder has no use for the puppy with a genetic issue, and the family typically has grown very attached to the puppy, in spite of its health issue.  In my opinion, demanding the puppy back as a requirement of the health guarantee is not in keeping with the spirit of good breeding and puppy placement practices. 

Expect that most contracts will place restrictions on the puppy’s exercise up to the age of one year old.  Puppies should not be road worked or jumped over 6 inch high obstacles prior to that age.  Too much imposed, high impact exercise can damage the growth plates, and evidence of malnutrition or over work will void the health guarantee for joint related issues.

The reputable breeder’s contract should also require that the puppy be returned to them, should the buyer no longer be able to keep the puppy.  Some contracts will allow for re-homing, but only after breeder approval of the new home. 

Pet contracts will require spaying or neutering after the age of six months.  Show/breeding contracts should also place restrictions on when the animal may be bred, what titles must be achieved before breeding and where the puppy’s progeny may be placed.  Typical puppy progeny placement restrictions include: no testing facilities, no pet shops sales, no sales to countries that do not have animal rights laws.

The buyer’s obligations begin with their first trip to the vet.  Most contracts will allow a 72 hour period for the new owner to take their puppy to the vet for its initial exam.  Should a serious issue with the puppy’s health be discovered, it can be returned to the breeder for a full refund or replacement puppy.  The following issues are generally not considered health problems: Worms, ear-mites, coccidia or giardia, fleas, diarrhea caused by feeding non-recommended foods, and/or cow's milk (unless in current diet), injuries occurring after the sale. Vet bills are the responsibility of the buyer.  However, the buyer should not expect to receive a puppy riddled with parasites inside and out.  The breeder should provide the buyer with a list of the de-worming medications and the dates administered, and the puppy should have received at least one vaccination prior to leaving the breeder’s kennel.  Proper worming protocols call for the puppies to be wormed at 2, 4, 6, 8 and 12 weeks of age.  The first vaccination may be administered approximately 2 weeks after weaning, which varies from litter to litter, but seven weeks would be typical.

Most reputable breeders will require that the puppy receive adequate nutrition, they may specify that a premium food be fed, and that the puppy have access to fresh water and adequate shelter at all times.  Additionally, my contract specifies that the puppy must attend a puppy manners or obedience series of classes prior to six months of age in order to help promote the socialization process.

Kiri and her new born puppies delivered c-section

The Most Important Characteristic of Your Breeder

When you purchase a puppy from a breeder, you are entering into a partnership that will last the lifetime of your dog.  You will have myriad questions regarding your puppy and his breed as he develops and as he ages.  

Reputable breeders will want to be kept abreast of any health concerns that may develop over the dog’s lifetime. Make sure that you feel comfortable communicating with the breeder.  Arrogant, aloof and judgmental breeders will be a deterrent to getting your questions answered.  A good breeder can offer sound advice on healthcare, training, training facilities as well as breed specific issues and research developments in the breed.

With all of the time spent rearing the puppies, the good breeder should be able to tell you a little bit about the temperaments of each of the puppies and help match the right puppy to your family's needs and lifestyle.