Introducing a New Dog to Existing Dogs

BEHAVIOUR TRAINING TRAINING AND BEHAVIOUR

Introducing a New Dog to Existing Dogs

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Bringing a new dog into your home can be a very exciting time, but it is also a stressful situation. You may have children or existing dogs or pets in the home, and might not be sure how your latest addition will fit in with current family members.

When it comes to introductions, advance preparation and patience will be paramount. Make sure your current dogs/animals are able to cope peacefully and happily around dogs before you decide to bring another dog home. Multi-dog households can work very well, but they can also lead to serious fights and potential injury if proper management and guidelines are not in place.

If you have children in the home, you need to teach them how to stay safe around dogs, and make sure your new dog will be comfortable with children.


Introductions should occur slowly and should never be forced. Dog to dog introductions are best done on neutral territory, and I recommend that your current dog(s) meet the new dog at least twice so they can check each other out and interact, as well as taking the dogs for a walk together, before bringing the new dog home. Minimise face-to-face greetings (or those through fences) as much as possible, as these can get tense quickly.

You should stay calm at all times during these initial introductions, as any tension can be felt by the dogs. If you are having trouble with introducing a new dog into your home, then you should contact a qualified animal behaviourist or dog trainer for assistance before the situation gets out of control.

TIPS TO INTRODUCE A NEW DOG TO YOUR PACK

If the existing dog is a male, then it is wise to introduce a more submissive female into the mix and vice versa. Inter-female aggression is very common, as are fights between competing males, and while dogs of the same sex can co-habit peacefully, it is often better to mix the sexes up.

It is advisable that your second dog is close in age, size or temperament to your existing dog, making sure their energy levels match. If a puppy is brought into a home with an established older dog, every effort must be made to keep puppy’s desire to play with the older dog to a minimum. In some cases a younger dog will breathe new life into an older one, but age gaps can also be the cause of major irritations! My preference for age difference is 4 to 6 years, depending on the breeds of the dogs.

Initial introductions need to be made on neutral territory with both dogs on loose leashes, so that they have the ability to interact without the frustration of being held too tightly. If the initial meeting goes well, both dogs should be allowed to interact off leash in a safe area, giving them freedom to form a relationship.

Established dogs can become jealous when too much attention is given to the new addition. It is extremely important that both dogs get equal attention as well as having quality one-on-one time with the owner.

Feeding the dogs separately will ensure that there are no fights over food bowls, and that each dogs’ dietary requirements are being met. High value chews, bones or toys need to be given to the dogs in separate rooms or areas, as even the best of friends can fight over valuable resources.


Rewarding the existing dog when he or she behaves well around the new arrival will show the dog that the new dog’s presence means good things happen. 

Walking the dogs individually a few times a week will also assist in strengthening the bond with you, as this is each dogs “special time” just with you! And you will get to know your new dogs’ personality even better! 

Brushing or massaging your dogs improves the bond you share with them, and again gives them one on one time just with you! 

TIPS TO TRANSPORT YOUR NEW DOG HOME

Having your existing dogs secured in your vehicle is essential for their safety (and it is also a legal requirement in NSW). 

Putting your new dog into a good sized crate that is secured in your vehicle will help the dog to not panic, or injure itself, plus has the advantage of minimising any car sickness mess. 

The use of a pheromone collar (such as Adaptil) on your new dog may really help him during the travelling and the first few weeks of settling into your home. My advice is to put it on at least an hour before travel is to commence so it has time to activate. 

You may need to pull over if the dog is not travelling well. For some rescued dogs, travelling in the car can be traumatic and they believe they are going to be dumped or surrendered, as this may be what happened to them once before.

TIPS TO MAKE THINGS EASY AT HOME


Take your existing dogs in first, and put them in the back yard, then bring the new dog inside the house, and let him check out the new environment. Set up his/her crate/pen in a safe yet quite area.

Then swap, by bringing the existing dogs in, and taking the new dog out to explore the yard freely.

You can then let then all interact freely in the yard under your supervision to ensure that there is no territorial behavior going on, and if play starts to get intense, calmly intervene by bringing the over-excited dog inside to calm down.

Your new dog may not be house trained, so you need to be prepared keep a close watch for behaviours that indicate toileting is needed. He should however learn quickly from your other dog(s).

Some rescued dogs may have some ongoing behavioural issues due to the way they were treated at some point in their life. They may have been abused or starved, and you might be surprised at some of the triggers.

It can take up to three months for your rescued dog’s personality to develop and shine – he/she is finally allowed to be themselves, and develop their character in a kind, loving and respectful home environment.

Should you need any assistance with any of the above, or something totally unexpected occurs, be sure to contact a qualified professional dog behavioural trainer who has first-hand experience with adopting and working with a rescued dog. 

For more details, visit the Dogology® website, where you can enrol your dog in my new Rescued Dog Program!

Janene Branc, Dogology® 2015

Janene Branc has been training dogs since 1995. She completed the Certificate IV in Dog Behavioural Training with the Delta Society of Australia in 2002 and the PetTech PetSaver Certificate course in 2012. She has attended many seminars on Agility, Obedience, Canine Musical Freestyle, Ethology & Canine Behavioural Management. She has been the NSW Regional Representative for the Association of Pet Dog Trainers (Australia) since 2010.

When Dog Barking Becomes a Problem

BEHAVIOUR BEHAVIOUR AND TRAINING

When Dog Barking Becomes a Problem

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Dogs bark as a means of normal communication. They may bark when calling out to other dogs or respond to other barking dogs or when communicating with its human owners.

However, when dogs bark excessively they become a nuisance to their owners and the neighbourhood. Before you can successfully manage a barking problem you will need to determine the cause of the barking. Your neighbours may be able to tell you how often your dog barks in your absence.

Dogs bark for a variety of reasons and it is important to work out why your dog is barking excessively. Once the underlying cause and 'triggers' for the barking are identified, training techniques can be used to treat the excessive barking. Some of these reasons include:

#1. BOREDOM

If you don’t have time for a dog, don’t get a dog. They are social animals and need to live with their families. Dogs who are left alone all day with nothing to do often resort to barking out of boredom. 

Boredom barkers will bark continuously and may also exercise their frustration on your flower beds. To tackle boredom barking you should start by ensuring that your dog is receiving enough exercise. If you take your dog for a good walk in the morning they will be more likely to rest until you come home. 

You should also make sure that your house and garden are sufficiently enriched with fun toys and puzzles to keep them entertained when you are not home. Try putting some of your dog’s daily food allowance into a toy or treat ball so they have to work to retrieve their snacks. 
If you're unsure what to get, we have a few suggestions for you in our "Tough Toys - Safe for Home Alone" post.

Keep their toys in a toy box and alternate the toys they have access to each day. Hide their toys and some treats around the garden to encourage them to forage or if they like to dig provide a sand pit to divert their instincts away from your garden. Does your dog have any playmates in the neighbourhood? You might alleviate boredom by inviting them over for the day.

You may also consider organising a 'dog walker' to walk your dog in the middle of the day while you are at work or a 'dog minder' to keep your dog company when you are away for long periods. You may also consider utilising your local 'doggy day care' services.

#2. SEPARATION ANXIETY

Dogs are social animals and it is normal for them to become anxious when they are left alone for the first time. Take care to teach your dog how to cope with being left alone at a young age. Begin by sending your dog outside for short periods of time while you are still at home. Make sure they have a toy to play with or raw bone to chew on while they are outside so the experience is a positive one.

Gradually extend the length of time you are leaving your dog alone. When you do leave the house, make sure that they have somewhere safe to retreat to such as a kennel. Make sure that they receive plenty of exercise and that they have a supply of toys and treats to keep them entertained while you are away. Do not fuss over your dog when you come home – make sure both your departure and return are low-key and unexcited. 

Most dogs will adjust to periods of time alone, however some become severely stressed and may begin to bark incessantly and even self-mutilate or injure themselves. If your dog suffers from separation anxiety you will need to manage the condition in consultation with a dog trainer/behaviourist.

#3. FEAR

Dogs can also bark due to fear. They may be afraid of people coming near their territory or fearful of noises. particularly at night which may stimulate anxieties. 

Dogs can also be fearful of fireworks, thunderstorms and lawnmowers etc.

To find out about what you can do to assist a dog suffering from noise phobia, please read our post on Dealing with Thunderstorm Phobia.

#4. TERRITORIAL BEHAVIOUR

It is natural for your dog to want to warn you about potential intruders. Your dog may not be able to distinguish between welcome visitors, people strolling past your home and intruders. Try and use predictable passers-by such as the postman to change your dog’s association from territory protection to a positive experience. Try and pre-empt the postman’s arrival and offer your dog a delicious treat or favourite toy. Only reward your dog when he/she is calm and not barking. With time your dog may begin to associate a person passing the house with something good rather than someone to protect you from.

If your dog barks at your neighbours when they are in their garden it is probably also because he is protecting your territory. Again, make sure you have some tasty treats at hand so that your dog associates your neighbours with the food (only give the treat when your dog is calm and not barking). 

You may also consider asking your friendly neighbours to treat your dog and supply them with their own stockpile – this is preferable to having them yell at your dog in frustration - yelling at a barking dog will only tend to reinforce the barking and protective behaviour. 

Barking is also reinforced when owners yell or scold their own barking dog - this is called negative reinforcement and should be avoided. Successfully treating excessive barking relies on positive reinforcement - that is, reward good behaviour and avoid reinforcing 'unwanted' behaviour.

If your dog is barking at the dog next door arrange a meeting time and supervise play between the two. Fun play time should quell fear-related territorial behaviour and alleviate boredom. Do not ignore or scold territorial barking as your dog will become confused and anxious if his attempts to protect you are negatively received. You might also find that one day your dog alerts you to a real threat!

#5. ATTENTION-SEEKING BEHAVIOUR

Dogs can bark when trying to call out to their human owner or when bored through being left alone for long periods of time or having nothing to do while its humans are at work/away from the home.

You can modify attention-seeking barking by ignoring the unwanted behaviour and rewarding good behaviour. When your dog barks for attention he must be completely ignored – avoid eye contact, even leave the room. Praise and pat your dog when he is calm and quiet so he realises that this is the behaviour required to secure your attention. You can also give your dog a food treat when he/she is calm and not barking. This rewards good behaviour and does not reinforce 'unwanted' behaviour.

#6. PROBLEM BEHAVIOUR

Any noise, no matter how slight can stimulate a barking response for e.g. rustling leaves, a banging window or a knock at the frontdoor/doorbell.

The basis of each of these barking problems is quite different. Likewise, approaches to treating each of them need to be different. 

Take the time to characterise your dog’s barking habits – does he bark at people passing by? Ask your neighbours whether he barks while you are away from home – does he bark all day or only some of the time? If necessary, manage the problem with help from a behavioural specialist. 

It is also a good idea to take your dog to the vet for a full health check to make sure there are no medical reasons for his behaviour. Never try and modify your dog’s behaviour by punishing him.

Anti-barking collars constitute a form of punishment and are an unreliable remedy – they do not address the cause of the problem and are easy to abuse. Your dog will be punished for every bark, some of which will be appropriate, and he will not learn an alternative, acceptable behaviour. RSPCA Australia does not recommend the use of these collars.

How to Solve 7 Common Bad Dog Habits

BEHAVIOUR TRAINING AND BEHAVIOUR

How to Solve 7 Common Bad Dog Habits

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Individual dogs, like people, misbehave in their own unique ways. Sometimes this is tied to breeding. Some dogs, like coonhounds, were bred to be very vocal. It’s therefore not really the dog’s fault that it has a predisposed drive to loudly howl. In fact, under the right situations, that behaviour is desired.

However, surveys still show that certain behavioural problems are common among all dogs, no matter the breed.

This list mentions the most common problems as reported by dog owners:

#1. Jumping up

Jumping on people is a simple problem to rectify. It can and should be rectified as few people like a dirty dog jumping on them. Also many children are injured by unruly dogs jumping up, and the elderly are also at risk.

#2. Barking

Dogs bark as we speak, a certain amount of barking for the right reason is a plus but your dog should be taught what is and what is not acceptable barking.

Dogs bark at the doorbell for any number of reasons. They could be excited or anxious about visitors, or they might bark as a watchdog tendency. Some dogs even equate their barking with you opening the door, so they think they're training you to open the door when they bark. One of the best ways to stop barking at the doorbell is to teach and reward an alternative behaviour, like sitting on a nearby mat and waiting for the door to be opened.

For additional advice on how to deal with barking issues, read our article on "When Dog Barking Becomes a Problem".

#3. Begging for food

Begging for food should not be tolerated. No matter how cute or desperate for food your dog looks, consistency is the key to curbing dinner-table begging. Make sure no one in your family feeds the dog from the table.

Even if his begging only works once in a blue moon, he'll repeat and escalate the behaviour until all his barking and whining pays off with a rare food reward. Instead of giving in, provide your dog with an appropriate dinnertime activity, like enjoying his own toys or food puzzles.

#4. Jumping on furniture

Dogs do not understand the concept of clean vs dirty, old vs new! It is best to teach your dog not to jump on furniture especially if you plan on taking them to visit family or friends.

#5. Digging

Digging is an extremely rewarding activity for dogs, whether they're digging to reach a scent or simply to release pent-up energy. Help your dog practice this behaviour appropriately by giving him a sandbox or section of the yard where he's allowed to dig.

Make sure this area has clearly marked visual boundaries, and use treats and toys to make this new digging place more exciting than the old one.

#6. Chewing

Chewing is a natural behaviour for dogs, since they explore their environment with their mouth. It also relieves stress and boredom, and helps keep their teeth clean.

When you catch your dog chewing inappropriate objects (like shoes, as many dogs do), redirect the chewing to an appropriate item, like a chew/stuffed toy. Then praise your puppy for selecting an acceptable outlet for his chewing behaviour. Talk with your veterinarian about which chews are safe for your dog.

#7. Stealing food off counters

Trainers call this behaviour "counter-surfing." It's one of the more difficult habits to break, since Fido experiences a huge reward for stealing the food: He gets to eat it! 
The easiest way to solve this problem is to eliminate the opportunity. Don't leave food around, and use baby gates or fencing to restrict your dog's access to the kitchen when you're not there to supervise him. Teaching the "leave it" command is useful for when you catch him in the act of stealing snacks.

"Don't worry.......He's friendly!!"

BEHAVIOUR offleash dogs responsible dog owner

"Don't worry.......He's friendly!!"

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It is a rare dog owner who has not heard these very words, or something similar, as an offleash dog comes barreling straight at you with no signs of slowing.

Some might be thinking, "No big deal", right?

Unless you are the owner of a fearful or reactive dog, or even just a dog in training.

Despite the fact that all towns, cities, and parks in Prince Edward Island have explicit leash laws, many people still allow their dogs to run free and to approach other dogs and people uninvited.

Many dogs do not enjoy meeting other dogs while on leash, as it is very limiting and does not allow a dog to express its full range of communication to other dogs. Yet others do not enjoy interacting with other dogs much at all, and may even be fearful of the approach of other dogs offleash.

Dog owners who have dogs with issues try to be proactive with their dogs to keep everyone safe, through leashes, training, and managment, only to be run upon by offleash dogs that cause a reactive outburst. Then the owner with the reactive dog is blamed, when in reality the offleash dog rudely interrupted the dog's space which is a no-no in dog-speak.
Also, many people without dogs are not interested in having all manners of uncontrolled dogs running at their dogs, without knowing the true intent of the oncoming dog's actions. Some people think that anything other than fighting is "friendliness", but there are many other pushy, overbearing, and bullying things that these offleash dogs do that go unchecked. Even people walking without dogs do not always enjoy the assaults of offleash dogs running at them. And letting an offleash dog run up to others without invitation may result in undesirable consequences for your own dog, if for any reason the other person/dog thinks there may be a threat and responds accordingly.
Being a responsible pet owner means keeping dogs on leash in leash-law areas, and if in an offleash area, under control with training so that your dog will leave other dogs and people alone unless invited to interact. Being responsible involves acknowledgment that others use the same areas and may want to be left alone.

Just remember -your dog may be "friendly" - but not all others want to make friends!