Dog Obesity & Weight Management

HEALTH AND WELLNESS ILLNESS PREVENTION

Dog Obesity & Weight Management

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As we all review our body shape after the holidays, it is a good time to look at our dogs in a critical light. Have we let them down by feeding them too much and not walking them enough?

Sadly obesity in pets is as common as it is in the human population: the most recent studies from the US show that 44% of dogs there are overweight or obese! The Australian Veterinary Association believes that Australian dogs are not that far behind.

As with us, the most common reasons are too much food and too little exercise. It is just too easy to "love" our pets by giving them treats or more food, but in so many cases this is quite the wrong thing to do.

I think it is fair to say that most dogs love their food. Just because they love it, is not a good reason to keep feeding them. Friends of ours have a Labrador and her all time record was convincing four family members that no one had fed her that night, resulting in four dinners, and she was still looking for more!

Certainly some breeds are more keen on their food than others, but we have to be their self-control, because they will just keep eating.

So how do you judge if your dog is overweight?

I am often asked this by my clients, who want me to look at the reading on the scales rather than at the dog itself.

Don't get me wrong, I think it is really important to know the weight of your dog and to keep recording it, so you can judge how you are both going. 

The important thing is to determine what is the correct weight for your individual dog. There are lots of breed charts around that can give you an idea of what a dog of a particular breed and sex should weigh, but it is a bit like saying how much should a person weigh, without looking at their build. 

The starting point is to get down and give your dog a good cuddle (something they would rather you did than feed them anyway!); have a good feel over their rib cage. 

Can you feel their ribs? (Really feel them?) if you can't, then your dog is overweight. There is nothing over the rib cage of a dog other than skin and perhaps fat. It is the same for men - just look at the swimmers on the blocks at the Olympics. Those guys have pumped every muscle to the max, but you can see every rib. 

So now we know that if the ribs are not easily felt, your pet is carrying excess fat. Most dogs should have a "waist" as well - their bodies should taper in behind the rib cage. Too many have the "love handles" where we can carry extra weight. In fact, clients often ask me if their dog has a growth - and yet it is a solid pad of fat on each side. 

Don't forget that your vet will always be keen to help you judge whether your dog is overweight.

Now if you have worked out that your dog is too fat, a good idea is to get a weight on your pet so you know where you are starting from and can gauge your success.

Most vets will be delighted if you pop in for a free weigh in. Get them to record the weight for you, if you like. Alternatively, you can probably weigh yourself on bathroom scales at home, then pick up the dog and subtract your weight from the total, to get your dog's weight.

So, why do we need to worry about the weight of dogs? They always love us when we feed them and always want more.The reasons are virtually identical to the hazards of obesity in humans.

The Principal Risks of Dog Obesity

#1. Reduced quality of life and reduced lifespan. We all want our dogs to live for as long and as well as possible, so why are we so intent on feeding them too much? It is conclusively shown that obesity sets us and our pets up for higher rates of cancer, and also damages so many internal organs like the liver.

#2. Increased risks of Arthritis. So many of my patients have arthritis and their owners ask what wonder drugs do they need. Certainly we have some amazing medicines that can help relieve the signs of arthritis, but without exception, reducing the weight of a pet will make an enormous difference.

#3. Increased risk of acute joint damage. Nature designed dogs to have ligaments and tendons strong enough for their bodies. If the body is too heavy, then the risk of ligament damage is vastly increased. Cruciate Ligament injuries are expensive to fix, and yet are much less likely to rupture in slim dogs.

#4. Diabetes. As in the human population, diabetes is a common and significant result of obesity. When a dog has diabetes its cells cannot absorb sugar from the blood. The cells lose their ability to absorb the blood sugar when they become insulin resistant, as a result of over feeding. The cells need energy to make them work. When the energy giving glucose cannot get into the cells, the dog will tire easily, but it will also be crying out for food, as the cells think they are starving, so the dog will eat more and pump more sugars into its blood stream trying to satisfy those starving cells. 

Too much blood sugar overwhelms the kidneys and it flows into the urine drawing water with it. A diabetic dog urinates away a lot of energy rich urine, so it is both hungry and thirsty, and loses weight. You can find more information in our post on Dog Diabetes.

#5. Reduced exercise capacity. Surely one of the greatest joys of having a dog is watching it run fast and free. Overweight dogs are not just carrying more fat on the outside, they have more on the inside, too. 

Think of your dog's rib age as a boney box. Inside the rib cage your dog needs to fit a beating heart and soft fluffy lungs. Overweight dogs have loads of fat inside that boney box. Something has to give, and guess what? It is the fluffy lungs that get squeezed, restricting their ability to fill with air. So not only is the overweight dog carrying more weight, but it has less capacity to absorb oxygen, slowing it down even more. As well as compressing the lungs, extra fat will compress windpipe and airways and make dogs that have airway challenges struggle to breathe even more. 

I encourage my clients to think of their dog's excess weight in terms of milk cartons. We quite often see dogs that are ten or twelve kilos or more overweight. 

I ask their owners how they would feel if they had to carry home six 2 litre milk cartons, or what they would say if they saw someone strap three 2 litre cartons into paniers on either side to make the dog carry home the milk?

Above is a photo of Tara who was 12 kilos overweight - she was carrying the equivalent of six 2 litre cartons every step she took 24/7.

What can you do if your dog is overweight?

The most important thing is to get the whole family on board. If one family member is surreptitiously feeding your dog, then all your good work will be undone.

How much should you feed your dog? 

There are two simple answers - less than you are feeding at present, and almost certainly, less than the dog food manufacturer recommends. Most of the feeding guides are based on exclusive feeding of that particular diet to an active dog. Most of us give other foods to our dogs and sadly, with all the pressures on our lives, few of us walk our dogs as much as we should.

It is essential to measure your dog's food. It doesn't matter how you prefer to feed your dog. Once it is overweight, you know you need to feed it less! It might be a good time to talk to a vet about what you are feeding your dog.

Many human foods are completely unsuited to dogs and can cause obesity and other problems like pancreatitis. If you like to prepare home cooked meals, that is fine. Just remember that the things that make us fat are likely to make our dogs fat as well. 

The most important thing is to measure the amount you are feeding and stick to the measure. If you like to feed dry dog foods, get a plastic cup and keep it with the dry food. Draw a line with a permanent marker on the container, and stick to that measure so you can gauge results. 

I have had dozens of dogs over the years and I still don't trust myself to gauge the amount I feed them. I measure every meal. Regardless of what you feed your dog, work out how much you are feeding and then give about 75% of this as a starting point. If your dog is not losing weight after a month then reduce the amount by another 10%.

1. Don't leave food down for your dog. Dogs are not grazing animals. In the wild they would have run down their prey and then gorged on it, laying down fat from a large feed as insurance (emergency food supply) against the "rainy day" when there was nothing to eat. None of our pets has a "rainy day" to worry about so does not need that reserve of energy.

2. Increase your dog's exercise - this is the part you should both love! Show how much you love them by going for regular long walks together. The bonding will be amazing and the weight will fall away more quickly. Be careful in the early stages if your dog is unfit or very overweight. 

Go in the cooler parts of the day or consider swimming, which is great if there is any sense of Arthritis. There is a growing number of hydrotherapy facilities in Australia, but a swim at the beach or river, or in your pool will give a fabulous work out without stressing the joints of an overweight or unfit dog.

3. Consider one of the many different brands of "prescription diet" from your vet. The proven technology behind these is fantastic. They really do work and your vet can often enrol your dog in a free computer recorded programme. 

The research behind these diets is the opposite of the human junk food industry. It is rather alarming that food technologists in the human food industry know which ingredients make us want to eat more, and which ingredients make us feel full or satiated. The junk food industry adds those "eat more" ingredients and takes out the "I'm full" components, which is why we find it hard to resist some snacks. 

Fortunately for our pets, the dog food manufacturers are doing the opposite, and have incorporated lots of the "I'm full" ingredients into the best weight loss diets. I know they cost a bit more than normal dog foods, but if they save you the cost of medicating a sick or arthritic dog you will be ahead.

Now back to Tara... I adopted her from an old man who had to go into a nursing home. She could barely hobble around and was on pain medication.

We put her on a diet and in three months she lost twelve kilos (her six 2 litre milk cartons) and runs on the beach with our other dogs, weighing a healthy 28 kilos. Oh! Yes she is not on any pain medication now either!

Dr. Gordon Heslop, 2016
Bachelor of Veterinary Medicine. Member of the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons. B.Vet. Med., M.R.C.V.S.

Gordon qualified as a vet from the Royal Veterinary College and after five years in practice in the UK he migrated to Australia. He now owns two veterinary hospitals in Sydney. Gordon has special interests in surgery and medicine in dogs and cats, and also in communicating veterinary matters to pet owners. He is a great believer in demystifying science, making it understandable to dog and cat owners. 

He was the resident vet on the Channel 10 morning TV show. 
Gordon is a co-founder of the VetPost online discount animal health website, bringing pet owners more affordable products for treatment and prevention of parasites, nutrition and health care.

Gordon has been a vet for over 35 years, and happily embraces every day at work and all the new challenges that each day brings. 

Pets & Bushfires – Planning for Survival

HEALTH AND WELLNESS PREVENTION

Pets & Bushfires – Planning for Survival

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There are bushfires every Australian summer. This is a part of life and for many of us, a risk we accept in order to live in "a little bush retreat or "a home among the gumtrees"...

Fire-ravaged areas are a poignant reminder to the rest of us to be prepared. By acting early, you can avoid danger, panic and potentially fatal situations for yourself and your pets.

The keys to giving your pets the best chance for survival are:

#1. DO YOU HAVE A BUSHFIRE SURVIVAL PLAN?

If your home is located near bush, grassland or coastal areas, it is imperative you have a Bushfire Survival Plan that includes your pets. CFA Victoria advises that the safest option is to be well away from high-risk bushfire areas on severe, extreme and catastrophic (code red) fire danger days.

#2. BE SURE YOUR PETS ARE EASY TO IDENTIFY 

Each dog must wear a collar with their name and your phone number. If there is room include your address as well. Put a spare collar with an ID tag in your pet evacuation kit. 

Ensure your pets are registered with the local council and are wearing current identification tags. Ensure your pets are microchipped and that all the details are up to date. Vets regularly see microchipped strays whose contact details are former owners or include a disconnected number. 

It is essential that the “alternative contact” you choose for the microchip is someone who does not live in the same home as you. That way if you are not contactable, they may be. 
If you're not sure which register your pet is currently on, read our story for "National Pet ID Month".

#3. PREPARE A BUSHFIRE PET EMERGENCY KIT

Put together the items you might need if you were forced to suddenly evacuate with your pets. Keep them somewhere safe and easily accessible, and ensure all members of the family know where to find them. Check your kit periodically to ensure contents have not expired.

Preparing a pet evacuation kit is an essential part of your planning process. It will ensure that you have everything you need in order to activate your plan quickly. This kit should include:

• Registration certificates
• Vaccination certificates
• Transportation equipment (crate/carrier for smaller dogs, leashes/car harnesses for larger dogs)
• Poo bags for cleaning up after dogs
• ID tag (including each pet's name and your mobile phone number)
• Food and water bowls, and at least one week’s supply of non-refrigerated food
• Medications and clear instructions for treatment of any medical conditions
• Blankets / Bedding / Toys
• Photograph of each pet (including their name) in sealed plastic bags
• Contact details for your vet, local animal shelter, local council and/or chosen animal accommodation facility.

#4. HIGH FIRE RISK DAYS: WHERE WILL YOUR PETS GO?

Plan ahead as late evacuation can be dangerous. To avoid unnecessary risks to you and your pets, move them to a safe place as soon as possible. If you know an evacuation order could occur in the near future, consider moving your pets into temporary accommodation in a safe area well before there is any need to evacuate. Having your pets spend a short time away is better than taking the risk of not being able to take them if evacuation orders are issued.

Many evacuation centres do not allow animals, including family pets. Check with your local council about pet-friendly options.

If you intend to move them to a friend or family member’s home, discuss it with them now.

If you intend to place them in kennels or a cattery, make a list of available facilities in the area and include their contact details. Ensure it is easy to find a number and call them in advance to check availability. It’s imperative that all vaccinations are up to date and you have records with you, as many boarding facilities will not take animals without proof of their current vaccination status.

#5. DISCUSS PLANS WITH YOUR NEIGHBOURS

Have a chat with your neighbours so that everyone is on the same page in terms of bushfire plans. If they are home on a high-risk day they will then be aware of your wishes for your animals, and you theirs. There is no more important time for crystal clear communication and teamwork than during an emergency.

Alex Demchenko and his dog Tessa after Adelaide Hills bushfires. Picture: Mark Brake

#6. PRACTICE!

Like any emergency drill, your evacuation needs to be well practiced. It will always take longer than expected, but if you go through the motions a few times a year you will have the confidence to work through what needs to be done in a logical order. Ensure every member of the family knows the plan and where to find the necessary equipment.

1. If your pets are outside, bring them into the house so they are confined and easy to catch for transport.

2. Find your pet evacuation kit.

3. Check your pets have collars with identification attached.

4. Put small dogs in individual carriers or crates and larger dogs on leashes.

5. Load your pets and then your pet evacuation kit into your vehicle.

6. Go for a drive. Practice the route you would take in an emergency.

Dogs rescued from the Inglewood bushfires in South Australia

Keep in mind that evacuation is stressful for all involved, including family pets. Opportunities to become comfortable with carriers and transport coupled with lots of positive reinforcement can help immensely. Bringing their familiar bedding and a favourite toy can also assist them in feeling calm. 

When away from home ensure plenty of opportunities for toilet breaks and leg stretching and regular access to drinks of cool, fresh water as dogs are at serious risk of heat stroke during extremely hot weather.

Keep safe this summer and if you have any other advice for including your dogs in a bushfire survival plan, please feel free to add your comments below.

Protect Your Dog from Snake Bites

HEALTH AND WELLNESS PREVENTION

Protect Your Dog from Snake Bites

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Close to 6,500 pets are bitten by snakes each year in Australia and a venomous snake bite is a life-threatening emergency.

With the onset of warmer and drier conditions, snakes can catch pets by surprise. At this time of year, even city dogs and cats can have these encounters in local parks, particularly those near bodies of water such as lakes and beaches and snakes can also venture into backyards.

Dr. Robert Johnson, President of the Australian Veterinary Association (AVA) explains "snakes tend to be at their most active at the end of the day. Snake bites tend to occur in the late afternoon or early evening, however it's important for dog owners to remain vigilant throughout the day."

Armed with curiosity and natural hunting instincts it is not uncommon for our four-legged friends to cross paths with a snake. Most snakes will try to avoid you and your pets but while you may simply walk away when you encounter a snake, dogs and cats will often harass the snake and get bitten as a result.

PRECAUTIONS

Dogs are inquisitive by nature so use a leash when hiking in bushland (particularly near water) or near beach dunes during the warmer months of the year. 

Do not let your dog dog explore holes or dig under rocks or logs and keep away from high grass and rocks where snakes like to rest.

If you live in the outer suburbs or semi-rural areas, dig your fence a foot into the ground to reduce the risk of snakes gathering on your own property.


Keep your backyard tidy by clearing undergrowth, filling holes in the ground, mowing the lawn, and clearing away toys and tools which all make great hiding places for snakes. Keep walkways clear of brush, flowers and shrubs. Clean up any spilled food, fruit or bird seed, which can attract rodents, and therefore snakes. Store any firewood away from the house.

If you see a snake that sees you, remember that a snake can strike only a distance of half its body length. 

Give the snake time to just go away and slowly walk back the way you came. Snakes are not looking to interact with people or pets. Do not let your dog examine dead snakes as they still have venomous fangs. If collecting a dead snake always have appropriate gloves. Do not attempt to kill or capture the snake; this is not only dangerous to you, but snakes are a protected species by law.

THE DEADLY BITE!

When a snake bites an animal it injects venom via the fangs into the tissue below the skin. Venom is rapidly absorbed from the site of the bite and carried mainly by the lymphatic system into the animal’s circulation.

Snake venom carries a large range of toxins that damage tissues and impair many of the body’s vital functions. These attack the nervous system and will interfere with the body’s natural clotting mechanisms.

HOW DO I IDENTIFY A SNAKE AND WHAT SHOULD I DO?

Red Belly Black Snake

Snakes are prevalent in the warmer months (typically October until April). They are frequently seen in areas near a fresh water source such as a creek or dam. 

Australia has a large number of venomous snakes but the most common snakes in Victoria and South Australia are tiger, brown, black, red-bellied black and copperhead. 

Common Death Adder Snake

In the south-eastern area of Queensland, brown and red-bellied black snakes, and occasionally the death adder and small eyed snake, are encountered.

The tiger snake and brown snake (Dugite) account for the majority of snake bites in domestic pets around Perth.

Remember… if your pet is bitten, DO NOT try to catch or kill the snake: all Australian snakes are protected and you may expose yourself to unnecessary danger.

SIGNS OF A SNAKE BITE

Signs of snake envenomation are seen within 1 to 24 hours after your pet has been bitten. Several factors will determine what sort of reaction your pet has to a snake bite. 

Brown Snake

The type of snake (some species of snake are more venomous than others), the amount of venom injected (depends of the size and maturity of the snake) and the location of the snake bite are all contributing factors.

Dogs and cats are most often bitten around the head and limbs. 

Usually the closer the bite is to the heart the quicker the venom will be absorbed into the pet’s system and distributed around the body.

At the beginning of summer, when snakes first emerge from hibernation, their venom glands tend to be fuller and their bites at this time are much more severe. The length of time since the snake last struck can also be a contributing factor.

In many cases, the animal collapses or vomits shortly after being bitten. The animal may appear to recover but then signs gradually get worse. Dilated (enlarged) pupils are a common early sign, followed by hind leg weakness that may cause the animal to stagger. Eventually the weakness becomes paralysis and the animal cannot walk or even hold its head up. Breathing becomes rapid and shallow then increasingly difficult and this can lead to coma and death, especially if not treated. Other signs that can be seen include trembling, drooling, depression, bleeding from wounds, blood in the urine or vomit, and pale gums.

Please beware also the red back spider which also causes your dog intense pain at the site of the bite and extreme sensitivity to touch. Other signs include muscular weakness and tremors.

FIRST AID

Any snake bite is an emergency. Snakes that aren’t venomous can still inflict painful bites that result in infection.

Remain calm if your pet is bitten by a snake. If your pet has been bitten on the neck remove its collar. 

Keeping your pet as still as possible until reaching a veterinarian is critical to help reduce the movement of the venom from the bite site. Try to keep the bite site below the level of the heart.

Please note that treatment options such as cold packs, ice, tourniquets, alcohol, bleeding the wound and trying to suck out venom should not be attempted in place of getting your pet to the vet — they just waste precious time.

If you suspect your pet has been bitten by a snake you should immobilise your pet and try to keep him/her as quiet as possible. It is vital that you take your pet to a veterinarian as quickly as possible. The sooner your pet is treated, the better their chances of survival.

If the veterinarian suspects that a venomous snake is involved, a specific type of antivenom is needed for each type of snake. So it’s important for you to know the type of snake that bit your pet. Being familiar with the snakes that are commonly in your area can help you identify the snake so that your veterinarian can determine the best treatment.

However do not put yourself or others at risk by attempting to identify the snake. Individual species of snake can vary in colour and pattern considerably and are all but impossible to definitively identify other than by experienced snake handlers.

SEEK TREATMENT FROM YOUR VET IMMEDIATELY

Firstly your veterinarian will examine your pet, assess the clinical sign they are showing and determine the best course of action. Further diagnostic tests may be required to determine if your pet has actually been bitten and sometimes it is useful to identify the type of snake via a snake bite detection kit. 

After positive identification the vet will administer anti-venom under close observation. Your dog will then be hospitalised for intensive monitoring and supportive care such as intravenous fluids and pain relief via a drip. Some patients require multiple vials of antivenom.

Other supportive care may also be required - including oxygen supplementation and even breathing for the pet if they are not breathing well on their own. This needs to continue until the circulating antivenom has been neutralised and any bound venom has worn off.

Prognosis can range from extremely guarded to good depending on the speed of treatment being started and the amount of venom injected.

If your pet is given antivenene for a snakebite, it is only being used to neutralise the snake venom in your pet's system at that time. It does not protect your pet in future from further envenomation from a snake. Antivenene is not a vaccination or a preventative medication.

RECOVERY

With antivenom treatment 91% of cats and 75% of dogs will survive if treated quickly. The survival rate is much lower however for pets that are left untreated, and death can occur.

Recovery from a snake bite usually takes 1-2 days if the pet receives prompt veterinary attention and the snake bite is not severe. However, severely envenomated animals may still take weeks to return to full health due to tissue damage to internal organs and they will require intensive and prolonged nursing care.

Remember... if your pet is bitten DO NOT try to catch or kill the snake as all Australian snakes are protected and you may expose yourself to unnecessary danger.

If you find a snake in your home, you can contact WIRES and hospitals also keep a list of snake catchers. The snake catchers are independent volunteers who provide a safety-related service for the public and a welfare-related service for native fauna.

WIRES is a volunteer organisation with trained reptile handlers however their priority is to respond to situations where reptiles are injured. They can however give advice to callers on steps they can take to safely encourage the snake to relocate elsewhere.

Disclaimer

The information in this blog does not constitute advice. If you need advice about your pet, consult a veterinarian or a qualified animal behaviourist or dog trainer, as appropriate.

Preventing Heat Stress in Dogs

HEALTH AND WELLNESS PREVENTION

Preventing Heat Stress in Dogs

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With what feels like a never ending succession of heatwaves every summer, Australian dogs face the real possibility of heat stress or heatstroke if they're left outside during these extreme hot days. It is essential to look at ways to keep your dog(s) safe, healthy and hydrated.

Heatstroke or heat stress is a state of hyperthermia (elevated core body temperature above the normal range). Heatstroke can occur in your dog when heat generation exceeds his body’s ability to lose heat. Heatstroke is a very serious condition: it can lead to multiple organ failure and animals can die quickly from heatstroke.

WHICH DOGS ARE MOST SUSCEPTIBLE TO HEAT STRESS?

As a responsible dog owner, you should be aware of conditions that may cause or exacerbate heat stroke. Dogs that are elderly, obese, or have a history of heart disease or seizures are more likely to suffer from heat strokes and may have a lower tolerance for increased heat.

Dogs with shorter snouts (like Pugs, Pekingese, Bulldogs) also have a harder time panting out their body heat, so may be at higher risk.

Certain breeds simply do not tolerate heat as well as others. Some breeds that should not be exercised during the hottest part of the day include: English and French Bulldogs, Boxers, Saint Bernards, Pugs, and Shih Tzus.

As a matter of fact, no dog should be exercised when the temperatures exceed 30 degrees, yet sadly we see some poor pooches being dragged along by their well-meaning owners under the midday sun for their daily walk... On hot days try to walk your dog very early in the morning or very late in the afternoon when it is cool, and avoid the hottest part of the day.

Avoid hot sand, concrete, asphalt areas or any other areas where heat is reflected and there is no access to shade.

WHAT ARE THE SIGNS OF HEAT EXHAUSTION IN DOGS?

Signs may vary between animals, but they commonly include:

• Incessant panting (increases as heat stroke progresses)
• Drooling, salivating
• Agitation, restlessness
• Very red or pale gums
• Bright red tongue
• Increased heart rate
• Breathing distress
• Vomiting, Diarrhoea (possibly with blood)
• Signs of mental confusion, delirium
• Dizziness, staggering
• Lethargy, weakness
• Muscle tremors
• Seizures
• Collapsing and lying down
• Little to no urine production
• Coma

HOW CAN YOU AVOID HEAT STRESS IN YOUR DOG?

#1. Do not leave your dog in a car

The following safety message has been widely publicised by the RSPCA but sadly a small number of dog owners still don't do the right thing by their pets.

Do not leave your dog in a car in spring or summer under any circumstances. 

A dog should never be left in a vehicle in the sun, even if the temperature is mild. 

Even with the windows cracked, the temperature inside a car can increase exponentially in a matter of minutes, often with fatal results for unfortunate dogs.

#2. Groom your pooch appropriately for the season

Dogs with particularly long and thick fur may need to be shaved or trimmed during the hottest part of the summer. A professional groomer will likely know the best approach for providing a weather-appropriate style for your dog.

Labradoodle Haircut for Summer

#3. Leave your dog inside during very hot days


Most laundry doors can easily be retrofitted with a dog door still allowing full access to the backyard to ensure no accidents occur in the house.

Labrador Retriever enjoying his own cooling fan (Photo Credit: Alamy)

If the weather is extremely hot, please allow your dog to stay inside your air conditioned house during the hottest parts of the day. If this is not possible, then ensure that he has access to a safe, shaded area outdoors. You can create extra shade areas in the backyard using shade cloths and shade umbrellas.

There are also some fully insulated dog kennels in the market which can make a huge difference in your dog's wellbeing on these extreme hot days.

#4. Provide your dog with shade and water

If your dog is outside on a very hot day, be sure that he has access to water and shade. 
Be careful if you're adding ice cubes to your dog's water bowl, as some animals will avoid drinking the water if they are concerned about the floating ice cubes. A good alternative is to freeze half a water bowl the night before and top the remainder up with cool water when putting out.

Some people even put ice on the ground for their dog to lie on if it is particularly hot outside, or you could provide him with a cooling mat.

Another helpful tip - courtesy of Bondi Vets' Dr. Chris Brown - is to provide your dogs with a way to do the sweating for them.
1. Grab a simple water spray bottle.
2. Fill it with water and place in the fridge.
3. Once the water is cool, give them a light spray on their belly, feet and underarms. These areas have good blood supply and will therefore cool your dog's body down even faster.

#5. Let your dog swim safely in hot weather

English Springer Spaniel enjoying a dip in his own bone-shaped pool - Photo: Dog Pools

If your dog has access to a river, stream, pond or a pool, he will likely swim in order to remain cool on a hot day. Allowing a dog access to water for swimming, or even hosing him down (gently) with water can help prevent heat stroke.

Be sure that you supervise your dog’s swimming and do not leave him near deep water (particularly swimming pools, which can be difficult for dogs to exit) if he is not a strong swimmer. Provide him with a life vest, a safety ramp or his own surf life saver...

#6. Allow your dog to rest if working in the heat

Australian Stumpy Tail Cattle Dog panting in the heat

If you have a working dog, such as a herder, you should allow him time to rest during hot days. During rest times, be sure that he has access to plenty of shade and cool water. If possible, allow him to swim or wet him during a break.

For some ideas on products that may help your dog during these hot days ahead, read our article on "Top 16 Summer Accessories for your Dog" here...

HOW SHOULD YOU TREAT A DOG WITH HEAT STRESS?

The first step is to instigate Emergency First Aid at home to help normalise your dog's body temperature.

• Apply or spray some cool water onto your dog's fur or skin. Try to also fan your pet to maximise heat loss quickly.
• Wetting down the area around your pet can also help.
• Don't use ice-cold water or ice as this may exacerbate the problem.
• Then take your pet to the nearest vet immediately.

Heat stroke is a life threatening emergency for any pet and you should always see a vet.

Even if your pet looks like they may be recovering they should still be checked by a vet. 

Why Should You Vaccinate Your Dog?

HEALTH AND WELLNESS PREVENTION

Why Should You Vaccinate Your Dog?

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Whether you are choosing a puppy from a reputable breeder or re-homing a dog from your local shelter, you need to ensure that your dog is both microchipped and vaccinated against a number of diseases. The last thing you want is anything to go wrong with your precious new dog in his first few months and you should therefore seek proper veterinary advice and care.

Modern veterinary medicine is all about prevention. It is preferable that an animal isn’t exposed to sickness whenever possible. Additionally, it will prevent heartbreak and grief and in monetary terms prevention is cheaper than a cure, which can often be very expensive.

AVA (Australian Veterinary Association) spokesperson, Dr David Neck, advises that vaccinations are the best way to protect pets against diseases like canine parvovirus, which are easily spread and are life-threatening.

What diseases should your dog be vaccinated against?

PARVOVIRUS

Canine parvovirus is a highly contagious virus that causes severe, debilitating disease in dogs of all ages but young puppies are most vulnerable to infection. 

Parvovirus attacks the gastrointestinal tract of the dog and common signs of infection include profuse vomiting, diarrhoea (often containing blood), severe abdominal pain and depression. There is a high mortality rate but some dogs may survive depending on how quickly they receive treatment, which usually involves intensive care in a veterinary hospital for several days.

Porthos and Aramis - recovering from Parvovirus at the shelter

“Dogs that have not been vaccinated are unnecessarily at risk of contracting the virus. 

Research shows that around 80% of untreated cases of parvovirus result in death. These statistics really highlight the importance of preventing the disease.

“Puppies from six weeks of age should be vaccinated to protect them from parvovirus and other diseases. Follow up vaccinations are required and until these have been completed puppies should be kept away from any areas where parvovirus outbreaks are known to have recently occurred,” said Dr David Neck.

Australia’s national pet disease surveillance system, Disease Watchdog (www.diseasewatchdog.org), has recorded 158 cases across the country and has identified several hot spots where outbreaks have occurred in the last few months of 2016. These include:

• Wagga Wagga area in NSW with more than 30 reported cases
• Tamworth region in NSW with close to 20 reported cases
• Mildura region in Victoria with more than 25 reported cases
• Armadale and surrounds in WA with more than 15 reported cases
• Northampton in WA with more than 10 reported cases
• Adelaide Northern suburbs in SA with 17 reported cases

It is a hardy virus that can remain in the environment for over 12 months and your local dog parks, dog boarding kennels and nature strips are all potential sources of infection. The virus is usually spread when the dog comes into contact with contaminated faeces or soil. 

Failing to vaccinate against this disease is the leading cause of preventable death from communicable disease in dogs.

Please note that a new form of the common and highly contagious canine parvovirus (CPV) has been discovered in Australia by researchers at the University of Adelaide. While the new strain, known as CPV-2c, is spreading around the world, until now there has been no confirmed evidence of its presence in Australia.

Also, most of the cases reported have occurred in dogs already vaccinated against parvovirus, although the clinical signs are typically milder than in unvaccinated dogs.

Until more is known, it’s important that dog owners continue to vaccinate for Parvo (CPV) and take their dogs to the vet if they are unwell. Signs of CPV infection include some or all of the following: decreased appetite, lethargy, vomiting, and diarrhoea. CPV has a high mortality rate.

CANINE DISTEMPER

Canine Distemper is an often fatal viral disease that can affect dogs of all ages but especially puppies and unvaccinated dogs. This virus attacks the nervous system and typical signs include fever, discharge from the nose and eyes, respiratory problems (with the possibility of pneumonia developing), loss of appetite, skin reactions, vomiting, diarrhoea.

Many dogs will also develop muscle spasms, convulsions and progressive paralysis. Dogs that do recover may end up with thickened foot pads, damaged teeth or even permanent brain damage. Outbreaks of canine distemper occur in areas with low vaccination rates and all dogs should be vaccinated against it.

CANINE COUGH

Canine Cough, also known as "Kennel Cough" is a disease primarily caused by the bacteria (Bordetella bronchiseptica) and the canine parainfluenza virus.

This disease is typified by a persistent hacking cough that often ends up with gagging. The coughing is usually made worse by exercise, excitement or pressure on the throat region.

It is a highly contagious disease and despite its name, it is not confined to kennels but it generally spreads from dog to dog in areas where they socialise like dog parks, training classes, dog shows, vet clinics, kennels, and animal shelters.

It is not usually fatal but it causes significant distress to the dog and owner. Some animals will stop eating and may become depressed and lethargic. Canine cough can be treated with antibiotics, nursing and rest, however, it is best to try to prevent the disease in the first instance.

It is possible that severely affected dogs may develop pneumonia as a consequence of contracting this disease. All dogs should be vaccinated annually to help prevent this disease.

CANINE HEPATITIS

Canine Hepatitis is a highly infectious disease caused by the canine adenovirus which causes liver damage. It is particularly severe in young dogs and death may result in 36 hours.

Puppies are most at risk and signs of infection include fever, corneal opacity (also called “blue eye”), depression, lack of appetite, vomiting, diarrhoea and severe abdominal pain (due to an inflamed liver). The virus is contracted through contact with the urine, faeces or saliva of infected dogs. 

A carrier dog may recover, but he will continue to spread the virus via its urine for up to six months. All dogs should be vaccinated against Canine Hepatitis.

Other diseases such as Leptospirosis and Coronavirus can be vaccinated against. These vaccines are only given to those dogs that are at high risk of developing the disease which are usually younger dogs. Your veterinarian can advise you if any of these vaccines are required or are appropriate for your dog.

When does my dog need to be vaccinated?

For maximum protection by vaccination, it is recommended that you discuss the vaccination programme with your veterinarian. Below are general guidelines that will provide some direction towards a vaccination protocol for younger dogs, however your vet can offer specific advice for your dog.

Age for vaccination	Vaccinate against
6-8 weeks	Canine Distemper Canine Hepatitis Canine Parvovirus Canine (Kennel) Cough
12-14 weeks	Canine Distemper Canine Hepatitis Canine Parvovirus Canine (Kennel) Cough
16-18 weeks	Canine Distemper Canine Hepatitis Canine Parvovirus Canine (Kennel) Cough

After their primary vaccination course, dogs should be vaccinated annually.

If you have never owned a dog before, you may get confused by the acronyms used by your veterinarian. You will hear them talk about C3, C4, and C5 vaccines. A C3 vaccine (known as ‘core’) protects your dog against parvovirus, distemper and hepatitis. The C4 will also protect against parainfluenza, while C5 protects your dog against the aforementioned diseases plus the Bordetella bronchiseptica (primary cause of the Kennel Cough).

A C5 vaccination is a mandatory requirement for most boarding kennels. It should also be administered to dogs such as show dogs or therapy dogs, which are exposed regularly to other dogs and people.

What are vaccines?

Vaccines are health products that trigger protective immune responses in pets and prepare them to fight future infections from disease-causing agents. They lessen the severity of future diseases and certain vaccines can prevent infection all together. Today, a variety of vaccines are available for use by veterinarians.

Fortunately, in Australia there are fewer highly infectious diseases of dogs than are common in other countries (such as rabies) around the world. However outbreaks of canine infectious disease do occur from time to time around the country, and for an animal with a correct vaccination program in place the chances of this occurring are very slim.

How do vaccines work?

Vaccines work by exposing the body's immune system to a particular modified infectious agent. This causes the white blood cells to react to fight the infection by producing proteins (antibodies) that are able to bind to and neutralise the infectious agent (antigen). Antibodies work together with other white blood cells (lymphocytes) that are able to identify and kill cells within the body that have become infected by the agent (cell mediated response). 

After exposure to a vaccine, the body 'remembers' the particular antigens so that when they are encountered again it can mount a rapid and strong immune response, preventing the dog from showing clinical signs of disease.

Is vaccination really necessary?

Vaccination is a very important and necessary part of your dog's preventative health program. The immunity your dog gains from being vaccinated will diminish with time. Yearly vaccination is the only way we can ensure protection against several serious and potentially fatal diseases.

Annual vaccinations are mandatory if your dog is to stay in a boarding kennel, attend an obedience school or travel on a plane. Unvaccinated animals will not be accepted in these situations.

Annual vaccinations also provide an ideal opportunity for the veterinarian to perform a complete health and wellness check of your dog and to discuss any concerns you may have.

My dog never mixes with other dogs. Does he still need to be vaccinated?

Yes, your dog still needs to be vaccinated. Many of the diseases we vaccinate against are airborne (such as Kennel cough) or can be brought into the home on your shoes (e.g. Parvovirus). Your dog therefore does not need to come into direct contact with another dog to become infected.

The fact that your dog does not mix with other dogs means it is isolated. This removes any opportunity to be naturally 'vaccinated' and reimmunise themselves. As a result their level of immunity may in fact be lower than dogs that are allowed outside.

My dog never goes to boarding kennels. Why does it need to be vaccinated against kennel cough?

Kennel cough is a highly contagious disease. It does not require direct dog-to-dog contact to be transmitted. For this reason vaccinating against the disease is advised for all dogs.

When can I take my puppy out now that it has had a vaccine?

Your puppy may not have developed complete immunity against the diseases it is being vaccinated for up to one week after he's received his second vaccine. However puppies are best socialised to other dogs, people and places between the ages of 8 and 14 weeks. This is the same period when they are at the greatest risk of being infected with diseases, particularly Parvovirus. 

If you are to take your puppy out, then avoid public places such as parks and beaches. Your puppy should only socialise with dogs that are known to be fully vaccinated and in an environment that you know has been free of any dogs with Parvovirus.

Is the vaccine 100% effective?

The immune response is a biological response. There are a number of factors that influence this response and as such a vaccination can never be 100% guaranteed. In the vast majority of cases the vaccine will produce an immune response that results in the animal developing adequate immunity to protect against disease. 

There is however a very small number of animals that may not develop this required level of immunity and may still be susceptible to infection.

Do vaccinations have any side effects?

Some holistic veterinarians think all vaccinations are actually harmful and destructive (and ignore the fact that human diseases such as smallpox and polio are almost non-existent today due solely to the use of vaccines to protect the population from these diseases).

It is highly unlikely that the vaccine will make your pet sick or have any side effects. A very small percentage of animals may experience a temporary reaction such as a stinging sensation or be a little lethargic for 24 hours. More serious reactions are extremely rare. If your dog has an allergic reaction to a vaccine then obviously, a different approach is needed than to repeat that vaccine.

If someone tells you that vaccines cause disease or weaken an animal's immune capabilities, ask to see the data that proves that position. Then you can make the call. You are the final authority regarding your dog's health care.

Once you feel you are comfortable with your assessment of the vaccine topic, no one should pressure you into doing something different.

Article updated 11th May, 2017