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Showing posts with label BEHAVIOUR AND TRAINING. Show all posts
Showing posts with label BEHAVIOUR AND TRAINING. Show all posts

Managing and Reducing Leash Reactivity


There’s nothing more disheartening than when your dog reacts aggressively towards other dogs when out on walks. I should know, I’ve experienced it with one of my dogs and therefore I feel your pain. I know too well how you need to have eyes at the back of your head, as well as missile-like homing abilities to be able to spot an oncoming dog more than a kilometre away. Always kept me on my toes!

But why does reactivity on the leash occur? What is the dog thinking and what is he trying to achieve by reacting? And what are the steps we can take to help manage and reduce it?

Firstly let us look at the many reasons why some dogs react on leash:


  • Lack of early socialisation as a young puppy (first 16 weeks)
  • Frightening experience(s) as a young puppy (the pup was bullied, rushed, tumbled, bitten or attacked) causing fear aggression
  • Genetic predisposition for aggression (the dog’s parents were that way)
  • Mishandling by owners 
  • Learned reactivity (e.g. copied the other family dog who always barked on walks)
  • Over-excitability*/arousal on leash causing a frustrated greeter
In the case of fear aggression, the dog wants the other dog to go away. The dog learns that barking and lunging causes one of two things to happen: 

1. The other dog goes away, OR 
2. Your dog is moved away. 
Either result is exactly what a fearful dog wants…distance! Therefore aggressive reactivity is now a trusted strategy for the dog.

* Reactivity on leash is not always due to fear aggression. 
In fact, fear aggression is probably just as over-diagnosed as separation anxiety is when it comes to dogs. 

Some dogs can become reactive due to over-arousal and excitement upon seeing another dog. If a dog has always been able to approach another dog when in an excitable state, then this behaviour naturally becomes reinforced.

Because of the escalation in behaviour, the owner one day decides to hold the dog back from greeting the other dog. This not only increases the dog’s frustration but also the dog’s reactive behaviour. 

Unfortunately, this can tip over into aggression if the dog is not managed correctly.

Other dogs seem to be fine with dogs when off leash, but not so good when on leash. This is probably due to the fact that when dogs are off leash, they can better control their distance from other dogs by moving away; which unfortunately is something they cannot do when on the leash. Being on leash (barrier) is usually the cause of frustration for a dog that is much more confident when he/she is off leash.


The main elements owners of reactive dogs need to know and practice:

1. AVOID & MANAGE: If you are not sure of the outcome, then don’t gamble. U-turning away, crossing the road or moving away before your dog reacts is always the best form of management. This is especially so if you are ill equipped and not sure what to do. Don’t allow your dog to practice the unwanted behaviour!

2. DESENSITISE: Regular, controlled exposure to a small group of calm dogs at a distance will assist in reducing your dog’s reactivity level over time. A dog school/club is excellent for this.



3. CHANGE the way your dog feels about other dogs: Give your dog yummy treats, or anything else your dog enjoys, whenever it sees a dog in the distance and does not react. Over time, this helps change the way your dog feels about seeing another dogs.

4. CONTROL: Good strategies allow you to gain and keep control in all kinds of situations. Get the help of a professional and qualified dog trainer to assist you with this.

If your dog has only mild reactivity then good management strategies and changing the way your dog feels about other dogs can greatly assist to reduce the behaviour. But don’t leave it to chance! Set up scenarios with a friend and their calm dog to allow you to practice regularly with your dog.

If your dog’s reactivity is medium to severe, then we suggest calling in a professional and qualified trainer with experience in working with reactive dogs and who can assist you with correct and workable strategies as well as guide you with the desensitisation process.

A Word on the Desensitisation Process...

Desensitisation (reducing the fear and reaction) can take any period of time to achieve. It’s not something that simply happens overnight, or even after just 2 weeks of practice. In some severe cases of fear aggression, desensitisation has taken up to 12 months to achieve! After this time, the learning can be generalised with the dog learning to cope being around dogs in many and varied situations.

There is no magic pill or potion that will help speed up the desensitisation process either. However if the dog’s fear is producing high levels of anxiety, then medication may help lessen the dog’s anxiety levels only. This will create a calmer dog and in turn allow for the desensitisation process to start taking place. 


Best of luck and please keep enjoying walking your dogs !!!



Trish Harris is the co-founder and director of Four Paws K9 Training which is one of the largest, privately owned dog training schools, operating in 4 locations around Melbourne. 

She is also a lecturer for the National Dog Trainers Federation’s “Certificate lll in Dog Training and Behaviour” course, teaching many new ‘would be’” instructors some of the necessary skills required to train dogs.

Dog Bites: the Subtle Warning Signs

Reports of dog bites are a common occurrence online and in the news, and whenever a new one appears a wave of hysteria spreads, much to the concern of most responsible canine professionals. The news reports these incidents as being the nature of a certain breed, or that the dog attacked "out of the blue", when in reality we know that this just isn't the case.

So why do dogs just snap and change from Dr. Jekyll to Mr. Hyde? The answer is simple; they don't. Dogs are fantastic communicators, and use their body language to let us humans know their stress levels and how they are feeling. The problem is that we, as owners and handlers, are more often than not unaware of these signals.

So what causes a dog to bite?


A dog bite can occur for many reasons, including:

  • Protecting a possession, a location or a person 
  • By being provoked or frightened, perhaps from being hugged, stepped on or patted roughly 
  • The dog is elderly and has minimal patience 
  • Injured or sick 
  • The dog is from a herding line and will nip while trying to "herd" 
This list is just an example, and there are more situations where stress levels or excitement may lead to biting. 
Resource Guarding - Photo Credit: Keith Cannataro / www.mrhoni-photography.com

The point is that dogs just do not bite for no reason and there are always warnings signs before a bite occurs. These signs can be very subtle and difficult to spot for an untrained eye. Sometimes these warning signs may have been reoccurring for months or even years before the dog finally loses their tolerance and acts out.

The majority of dog owners/handlers notice some of the more obvious stress signals such as a tail tucked between the legs, cowering or whining, but may not be aware of the more subtle indicators that suggest a dog may be stressed or anxious.

Displacement Behaviour Signs

Displacement behaviours are normal dog behaviours that are being displayed out of the dog's normal context. For example, a normal behaviour in context would be a dog yawning after having just awoken from a nap. In contrast a dog that is yawning while being hugged could be considered a behaviour not in context and therefore a displacement behaviour.

These behaviours indicate a conflict and anxiety in the dog. The dog wants to do one thing (act out) but suppresses the urge and displaces it with an alternative behaviour (yawn). The behaviours are a sign of this conflict and a warning sign to all owners/handlers.

Other examples of displacement behaviours can include:
  • Yawning when not tired 
  • Licking chops without the presence of food 
  • Scratching when not itchy 
  • Biting of paws and other limbs with no reason 
  • Sudden sniffing of the surrounding area or object 
  • A wet dog shake without being wet or dirty

      Avoidance Behaviour Signs

      Dogs are not silly beings, if they are in a situation that is stressful or makes them feel anxious they will want to remove themselves from it. Forcing a dog to stay in a situation in which they feel anxious is a recipe for disaster, especially if you are not a professional. 

      There are some cases where forcing a dog to remain in a position they feel uncomfortable in is necessary, but should only ever be under the instruction and supervision of a canine professional. Avoidance behaviours are much easier to spot, but they still may go unnoticed as an early warning sign.

      Some examples of avoidance behaviours can include:

      • A dog stands and leaves the immediate environment
      • Dog turns head away 
      • Hiding behind a person or object
      • Barking then retreating 
      • Dog rolls over into a submissive state

      Some more of the more commonly known warning signs are: 

      • Ears sideways for erect eared dogs 
      • Ears back and very rapid panting 
      • Half moon eyes (Whites showing) 
      • The look of pleading 
      • Leaning away 
      • Tail tucked between legs 
      • Tail low and only end wagging 
      • Tail down or straight for a curly tailed dog 



      Be aware that signs shown by tails could be a whole other article in itself and the signs shown by them will differ greatly between breeds. Do not rely only on the visual cues of the tail.



      Dogs in general do not like being hugged around the neck or being climbed over by children and these warning signs are a dog's silent cry for help before acting out. Be vigilant and observant of your dog's behaviour and not only could you save somebody receiving a bite, you may save the dog from the needless act of being destroyed.

      Here is an amazingly well produced short video created by "The Family Dog" that expresses the cries for help shown by our dogs put under unnecessary stress by young children.



      If you are noticing some of these behaviours, this is a situation where you need to call a professional dog trainer immediately: do not wait for the unspeakable to happen!




      About the Author

      Scott McGuiness is the current Director of Canine Connect an Adelaide-based canine training and behaviour modification company. Scott began his career in 'Dog Daycare' and is now one of the leading dog trainers in South Australia. 

      With qualifications with the National Dog Trainers Federation, Scott most enjoys bringing hope to those struggling with their canine companions. He's also the General Manager of Hedgegrove Boarding Kennels and Cattery.

      Dealing with Dog Separation Anxiety

      Separation anxiety is triggered when your dog becomes upset over separation from you. Simply put, he is afraid of being left alone. What your dog is thinking is that they're about to lose their main friend and that you will not be returning, ever! It is this preoccupation that sets off the cycle.

      One of the most common complaints of furparents (or their neighbours) is that their dogs are disruptive or destructive when left alone. Escape attempts by dogs with separation anxiety are often extreme and can result in self-harm and household destruction, especially around exit points like windows and doors.

      What are the Symptoms of Separation Anxiety ?

      After all, you know your pet better than any veterinarian can and you should be able to
       diagnose by noticing its signs and symptoms in your pet.  

      Separation anxiety is not the same as boredom, which can also result in chewing, pawing, digging, and other bad behaviours. Separation anxiety can begin as a panic soon as you leave, or be brought on by boredom after an hour or two.

      All puppies show some signs of separation anxiety but as time passes, most show these signs less and less and become more confident about being alone. Their worry about your being away or about their being away from “the pack” becomes out of line for a “teenage” or older dog.

      Signs of separation anxiety displayed by dogs when they are about to be left alone or simply think they are about to be include: fearfulness (worry, apprehensiveness), clinginess, hyperactivity, excessive barking and yelping, urinating or defecating inappropriately, vomiting, diarrhea, salivation, depression or aggressiveness. 

      Some dogs chew on door frames or window sills, dig at doors and doorways, or destroy household objects.

      Some over-eat; some under-eat. Some twitch their ears, pace, pant, hide or jump and bounce about. Some dogs can be left alone for no longer than a few minutes before they start panicking and exhibiting these behaviours. 


      Sometimes separation anxiety is caused by a change in your schedule that requires your dog to be left alone for longer than normal. Unidentified changes in older pets may also cause sudden separation anxiety, which can be mistaken for senility. 

      Separation anxiety appears to be shared equally in male and female dogs, whether they are neutered or not. Among dogs, long nosed Shepherd-like dogs - bred for herding and guarding - as well as Spaniels and Setters more commonly display this condition. 

      Anecdotal evidence showed that dogs with separation anxiety tend to be lean or thin and have periodic digestive disturbances. Veterinary advice places the age at onset in dogs at usually 5 months to two years and suggests that in its most severe form, it affects 4-8 % of pet dogs.  


      What are the Causes of Separation Anxiety ?

      Some puppies retain their normal early fear of being left alone. Perhaps these were puppies that were removed from their parents too young or whose mothers were unavailable. Others come from families or breeds of dogs (i.e. Dobermans) genetically prone to anxiety. Many are multi-owner dogs that bounced from one home to another, from shelter to shelter. 

      This certainly explains why our Belgian Malinois Aramis, our second rescue dog, displays this behaviour after being sadly dumped at a country pound at 3 months, followed by 6 months in a shelter, then 18 months with a family who later returned her to the same shelter, probably for that reason! After only 4 months with us, we’re still working through her issues …

      Certainly some of these rescue dogs were abused but only a small percentage of abused pets develop separation anxiety. Social risk factors include early maternal rejection, 
      neglect as a puppy or lack of physical and mental stimulation.  

      In dogs, the remission rate is fairly high – that is, a lot of pets are going to have good days and bad ones, good periods and bad periods. Some fortunate ones will cure themselves altogether with minimal help from you. Older dogs may have difficulty moving to new homes, accepting new pets, babies and new situations in general. But although we do not yet know the exact cause of separation anxiety, some risk factors are known.

      Affected pets tend to belong to families that are close-knit. The disorder often develops after a stress such as death or illness in the family, a move, a new baby or pet or changes in the family structure. 

      Dogs and people affected often have parents and siblings affected: if one human identical twin has separation anxiety, the other almost certainly does too. The same appears to apply to litters of dogs – although with less certainty. 

      Today all that can be said is that separation anxiety results from abnormalities in neural (nerve) circuitry and/or chemical transmitters  (probably nor-epinephrine, serotonin and dopamine).

      What are Some of the Therapies for Separation Anxiety ?


      Non-drug therapies should always be the first approach when possible. 

      In some dogs, all that is required is to place the dog in a smaller space or a “crate”, where they can feel secure when you leave. If the dog panics when crated, don’t force it as this will make the situation worse. Crating can be a simple “fix”, but I would try positive reinforcement techniques and medications before I resorted to “crating” my own dog. 

      Positive reinforcement teaches your dog that he does not have to be fearful and panic when left alone and that being alone is not such a bad thing. We do this by rewarding desirable behaviour and ignoring bad behaviour.

      Besides positive reinforcement, another term that is thrown around a great deal is “Cognitive Behavioural Therapy”

      This has four components: 1) recognizing anxious feelings in your pet, 2) reassurance in anxiety-provoking situations, 3) developing a plan for coping with the situation, and 4) evaluating the success of coping strategies and behavioural therapy.

      Here are some practical steps you can take to minimise separation anxiety. All attempt to teach your dog that he does not have to be frightened and panicky when left alone and to lessen his dependency:

      1. Teach your dog as many commands as possible. Your pooch should be able to “sit” “relax” and “stay” on command while you stroke and reassure him. One of the best ways to accomplish this is to join a group obedience class. 

      Each member of your household should participate in a “take charge” way because it is impossible to have happy, well-adjusted family dog if family members are below it in the “pecking order” (social order). The point of this training is teaching anxious dogs to relax and give them confidence. Practice these exercises in various rooms of the house and outside. Give out praise and chew treats liberally.

      2. Find a room in your house that is not easily destroyed. 

      Place the dog in it with some of his favourite toys and stay with him a while. Then leave and shut the door promptly without fanfare. When you return, a few minutes later, give him a pat and his favourite food treat. Over days, repeat this; but each time stay away a little longer. You may even leave the radio or television on. (The technical term for this is Graduated Exposure or desensitisation)

      3. Dogs know when you are thinking of leaving long before you do. 

      Perhaps it is because you put on your shoes, pick up your purse or car keys or put on your work clothes. If you can determine what the clues are that you give your dog, you can try to desensitise him to these clues by repeating them frequently but not leaving and by giving him a treat and praise when he behaves well. When you have made progress, make your departures quiet and quick. (The technical term for this is Contingency Management or unlearning)

      4. In some pets, you can reduce dependency by spending less time with them for a training period of several weeks or months. That means less eye contact, less verbal praise and less comforting, less commands and less scolding. During these periods the dog should not be allowed to sleep in your bed or bedroom. While doing this, never “reward” unwanted behaviour by making a scene, scolding or interacting with the pet. 

      Always be mellow with your pet – mellow people tend to have mellow pets. The purpose of all this is to make the pet more self-reliant. (The technical term for this is Response Prevention)

      5. There are mixed thoughts about the benefit of having a companion dog for your dog

      Some say this may help the situation and others say it will make the problem worse.

      6. It really helps to work with a qualified animal behaviourist who has specific experience with separation anxiety in dogs because it is fairly easy to make things worse by being too zealous, too harsh, or too shy with your pet.

      Other Strategies

      Do not make your departures a big production by hugging your dog because you are guilty about leaving. This only makes the problem worse. Instead try leaving through a back or side door as departures should be quick and quiet. The whole family should ignore the dog 20 minutes before you leave and 20 minutes after you get home.

      Your dog needs vigorous exercise once or twice a day. A good plan is to take him for a walk or jog an hour or so before you leave for work and then give him 20 minutes or so to calm down before you leave.

      What Are The Medications Used To Treat Separation Anxiety ?

      Drug therapy should not be used until you have attempted some of the non-drug therapies listed above. 
      However preliminary research suggests that selective serotonin reuptake inhibitors (SSRI’s) may provide effective treatment of separation anxiety disorder and you should discuss the latest treatments available with your vet.

      When separation anxiety is successfully treated, you will notice other changes in your pet. They will usually be less tense and depressed, and more enthusiastic and carefree.

      Try to be content with small improvements and don’t expect a total makeover. This does not mean that love, patience, training and/or medication can’t improve your dog's situation. 

      It might also help if you understand that your dog's earlier traumas might be partly responsible for their current psychological issues. Many pet owners - as we did - feel only guilt and frustration. There is really no reason to feel that way so try not to.

      No guarantee is stated or implied in this article and if you follow any of the advice in it, you do so at your own risk. If you ever feel that you, your dog, or others are at risk because of your dog, please seek the services of a professional dog trainer.

      When Dog Barking Becomes a Problem

      Dogs bark as a means of normal communication. They may bark when calling out to other dogs or respond to other barking dogs or when communicating with its human owners.

      However, when dogs bark excessively they become a nuisance to their owners and the neighbourhood. Before you can successfully manage a barking problem you will need to determine the cause of the barking. Your neighbours may be able to tell you how often your dog barks in your absence.

      Dogs bark for a variety of reasons and it is important to work out why your dog is barking excessively. Once the underlying cause and 'triggers' for the barking are identified, training techniques can be used to treat the excessive barking. Some of these reasons include:

      #1. BOREDOM

      If you don’t have time for a dog, don’t get a dog. They are social animals and need to live with their families. Dogs who are left alone all day with nothing to do often resort to barking out of boredom. 


      Boredom barkers will bark continuously and may also exercise their frustration on your flower beds. To tackle boredom barking you should start by ensuring that your dog is receiving enough exercise. If you take your dog for a good walk in the morning they will be more likely to rest until you come home. 

      You should also make sure that your house and garden are sufficiently enriched with fun toys and puzzles to keep them entertained when you are not home. Try putting some of your dog’s daily food allowance into a toy or treat ball so they have to work to retrieve their snacks. 
      If you're unsure what to get, we have a few suggestions for you in our "Tough Toys - Safe for Home Alone" post.

      DIY-dog-treat-dispenser
      Keep their toys in a toy box and alternate the toys they have access to each day. Hide their toys and some treats around the garden to encourage them to forage or if they like to dig provide a sand pit to divert their instincts away from your garden. Does your dog have any playmates in the neighbourhood? You might alleviate boredom by inviting them over for the day.

      You may also consider organising a 'dog walker' to walk your dog in the middle of the day while you are at work or a 'dog minder' to keep your dog company when you are away for long periods. You may also consider utilising your local 'doggy day care' services.

      #2. SEPARATION ANXIETY

      Dogs are social animals and it is normal for them to become anxious when they are left alone for the first time. Take care to teach your dog how to cope with being left alone at a young age. Begin by sending your dog outside for short periods of time while you are still at home. Make sure they have a toy to play with or raw bone to chew on while they are outside so the experience is a positive one.

      Gradually extend the length of time you are leaving your dog alone. When you do leave the house, make sure that they have somewhere safe to retreat to such as a kennel. Make sure that they receive plenty of exercise and that they have a supply of toys and treats to keep them entertained while you are away. Do not fuss over your dog when you come home – make sure both your departure and return are low-key and unexcited. 

      Most dogs will adjust to periods of time alone, however some become severely stressed and may begin to bark incessantly and even self-mutilate or injure themselves. If your dog suffers from separation anxiety you will need to manage the condition in consultation with a dog trainer/behaviourist.

      #3. FEAR



      Dogs can also bark due to fear. They may be afraid of people coming near their territory or fearful of noises. particularly at night which may stimulate anxieties. 

      Dogs can also be fearful of fireworks, thunderstorms and lawnmowers etc.

      To find out about what you can do to assist a dog suffering from noise phobia, please read our post on Dealing with Thunderstorm Phobia.



      #4. TERRITORIAL BEHAVIOUR

      It is natural for your dog to want to warn you about potential intruders. Your dog may not be able to distinguish between welcome visitors, people strolling past your home and intruders. Try and use predictable passers-by such as the postman to change your dog’s association from territory protection to a positive experience. Try and pre-empt the postman’s arrival and offer your dog a delicious treat or favourite toy. Only reward your dog when he/she is calm and not barking. With time your dog may begin to associate a person passing the house with something good rather than someone to protect you from.



      If your dog barks at your neighbours when they are in their garden it is probably also because he is protecting your territory. Again, make sure you have some tasty treats at hand so that your dog associates your neighbours with the food (only give the treat when your dog is calm and not barking). 

      You may also consider asking your friendly neighbours to treat your dog and supply them with their own stockpile – this is preferable to having them yell at your dog in frustration - yelling at a barking dog will only tend to reinforce the barking and protective behaviour. 

      Barking is also reinforced when owners yell or scold their own barking dog - this is called negative reinforcement and should be avoided. Successfully treating excessive barking relies on positive reinforcement - that is, reward good behaviour and avoid reinforcing 'unwanted' behaviour.

      If your dog is barking at the dog next door arrange a meeting time and supervise play between the two. Fun play time should quell fear-related territorial behaviour and alleviate boredom. Do not ignore or scold territorial barking as your dog will become confused and anxious if his attempts to protect you are negatively received. You might also find that one day your dog alerts you to a real threat!

      #5. ATTENTION-SEEKING BEHAVIOUR

      Dogs can bark when trying to call out to their human owner or when bored through being left alone for long periods of time or having nothing to do while its humans are at work/away from the home.

      You can modify attention-seeking barking by ignoring the unwanted behaviour and rewarding good behaviour. When your dog barks for attention he must be completely ignored – avoid eye contact, even leave the room. Praise and pat your dog when he is calm and quiet so he realises that this is the behaviour required to secure your attention. You can also give your dog a food treat when he/she is calm and not barking. This rewards good behaviour and does not reinforce 'unwanted' behaviour.

      #6. PROBLEM BEHAVIOUR

      Any noise, no matter how slight can stimulate a barking response for e.g. rustling leaves, a banging window or a knock at the frontdoor/doorbell.

      dog-barking-at-doorbell
      The basis of each of these barking problems is quite different. Likewise, approaches to treating each of them need to be different. 

      Take the time to characterise your dog’s barking habits – does he bark at people passing by? Ask your neighbours whether he barks while you are away from home – does he bark all day or only some of the time? If necessary, manage the problem with help from a behavioural specialist. 

      It is also a good idea to take your dog to the vet for a full health check to make sure there are no medical reasons for his behaviour. Never try and modify your dog’s behaviour by punishing him.

      Anti-barking collars constitute a form of punishment and are an unreliable remedy – they do not address the cause of the problem and are easy to abuse. Your dog will be punished for every bark, some of which will be appropriate, and he will not learn an alternative, acceptable behaviour. RSPCA Australia does not recommend the use of these collars.